BASQUE COUNTRY - France 2014 - page 821

Various museums (including those dedicated to diocesan art and the Holy Week pro-
cessions) are in or near the Old Town, but on a quick visit only one is worth considering...
Basque Museum (Euskal Museoa)
It'sfittingthatBilbao,aleadingcityofSpain'sBasqueregion,wouldhaveamuseumded-
icated to its unique culture. Unfortunately, the almost complete lack of English leaves the
exhibits shrouded in mystery—much like the Basques themselves. Around a ground-floor
cloister, you'll see old stone monuments. The first floor delves into the Basque cultural
heritage, displaying ceramics, guns, looms, and other tools. Special emphasis is given to
nautical artifacts fromthisseafaringpeople,BasquesettlersintheAmericanWest,andthe
pastorallifestylesofruralBasques.Thetopfloorisdedicatedtoarchaeology,withexhibits
about old tools and settlements.
Cost and Hours: €3,Tue-Sat 11:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-14:00, closed Mon, Miguel de
Unamuno Plaza 4, tel. [phone], www.euskal-museoa.org/es .
La Ribera Market —With a new, three-star Michelin restaurant, Bilbao seems poised to
give San Sebastián a run for its money as culinary capital of the Basque Country. As part
of an urban renewal plan, the 1929 La Ribera city market has recently reopened to an en-
thusiastic public.Strollthestallsforthefreshestfish(lookforthebusiestsellers),shopfor
produce, and admire a series of Art Deco stained-glass panels on the top floor. The city's
coat-of-arms, with two wolves, can be found in the largest panels. There's been a market
here since Bilbao was founded in 1300.
Cost and Hours: Free entry, Mon-Fri 8:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00, Sat 8:00-14:30,
closed Sun, tel. [phone], www.mercadodelaribera.net .
Sleeping in Bilbao
(€1 = about $1.30, country code: 34)
Bilbao merits an overnight stay. Even those who are interested only in the Guggenheim
find that there's much more to see in this historic yet quickly changing city.
Near the Guggenheim Museum
$$$ Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao is the place for well-heeled modern-art fans looking for
a splurge close to the museum. It's right across the street from the main entrance to the
Guggenheim and Jeff Koons' Puppy. The hotel is gathered around an atrium with a giant
“stonetree”andotherartsyflourishes,anditsdecor(byaprominentSpanishdesigner)was
clearly inspired by Gehry's masterpiece. The 145 plush rooms are distinctly black, white,
steel, and very postmodern (standard Db-€130-200, museum-view “executive” rooms for