Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
nearly a century and a half. This tree is a descendant of that one, and possibly of all the
treesheresinceancienttimes.ThislocationiswhereBasqueleadershavemetinsolidarity
across the centuries.
In the Middle Ages, after Basque lands became part of Castile, Castilian kings came
here to pledge respect to the old Basque laws. When Basque independence came under
fire in the 19th century, patriots rallied by singing a song about this tree
(“Ancient and
holy symbol / Let thy fruit fall worldwide / While we gaze in adoration / Upon thee, our
blessed tree”).
After the 1937 bombing, in which this tree's predecessor was miraculously
unscathed, hundreds of survivors sought refuge under its branches. Today, although offi-
cial representatives in the Spanish government are elected at the polls, the Basques choose
their figurehead leader, the Lehendakari (“First One”), in this same spot.
Step back inside and enter the
assembly chamber
—like a mini-parliament for the
region of Bizkaia (“Vízcaya” in Spanish, “Biscay” in English; one of the seven Basque
territories).Noticetheholywaterandthealtar—asignthatthere'snoseparationofchurch
and state in Basque politics. The large paintings above the doors show the swearing of al-
legiance to the Old Law. Portraits of 26 former Lords of Bizkaia maintain a watchful eye
over the current assembly's decisions.
Guernica is well-connected to
Bilbao
(2 trains/hour, 50 minutes, arrive at Bilbao's Atxuri
Station; also 4 buses/hour, 40 minutes) and to
Lekeitio
(hourly buses, 40 minutes). Con-
nections are sparser on weekends. The easiest way to connect to San Sebastián is via Bil-
bao,thoughyoucanalsogetthereontheslow“Topo”EuskoTrentrain(transferinLemoa,
about 3-4 hours).
In recent years, Bilbao (bil-BOW, rhymes with “cow”) has seen a transformation like no
other Spanish city. Entire sectors of the industrial city's long-depressed port have been
cleared away to allow construction of a new convention center and the stunning Guggen-
heim Museum.
Bilbao retains less and less of its grim industrial past...and looks toward an exciting
new future. But some of the grime hangs on. The city mingles beautiful but crumbling
old buildings; eyesore high-rise apartment blocks; brand-new super-modern additions to
the skyline (such as the Guggenheim and its neighbor, the 40-story Iberdrola Tower); and,
scattered in the lush green hillsides all around the horizon, typical whitewashed Basque
