Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
sidra
a dry cider that's a bit more alcoholic than beer
sin
(seen)
non-alcoholic beer (literally means “without”)
tinto
red house wine
txakoli
(chah-koh-
LEE)
fresh white wine, poured from high to “break against the glass” and aerated to add
sparkle—good with seafood, so it fits the local cuisine well
crianza
a glass of nicely aged wine. It's smart to ask for this instead of “
un tinto
” to get better
quality for nearly the same price.
vaso de agua
glass of tap water (they'll ask you “bottled?”—
embotellada
—and you say no)
zurito
(thoo-
REE-toh)
small beer
Paying the Bill
Zenbat da?
“How much?”
Me cobras?
“What's the damage?” (a fun way to say “The bill, please”)
La Cuchara de San Telmo,
with cooks taught by a big-name Basque chef, Alex
Mondiel, is a cramped place that devotes as much space to its thriving kitchen as its bar.
It has nothing precooked and set on the bar—order your mini-gourmet plates with a spir-
it of adventure from the constantly changing blackboard. Their foie gras with apple jelly
is rightfully famous (€3
pintxos,
closed Mon, tucked away on a lonely alley called Santa
Corda behind Museum of San Telmo at 31 de Agosto #28, tel. 943-435-446).
A Fuego Negro
is cool and upscale compared with the others, with a hip, slicker
vibe and a blackboard menu of
pintxos
and drinks (there's an English translation sheet).
They have a knack for mixing gourmet pretentiousness with whimsy here: Try their
arroz,
tomate, y un huevo
(risotto with tomato and egg);
bakailu
(cod); and
regaliz
(licorice ice
cream) trio for a unique taste-bud experience (€3.60). Enjoy their serious and extensive
wineselection(closedMon,31deAgosto#31,tel.650-135-373).Aninvitinglittlesection
in the back makes this a sit-down dining opportunity.
Cervecerías La Mejillonera
is famous among students for its big, cheap beers,
pa-
tatas bravas,
and mussels (“
tigres
” is the spicy favorite). A long, skinny stainless-steel
bar and lots of photos make ordering easy—this is the only place in town where you pay
when served. Throw your mussels shells on the floor like the locals (Calle Puerto 15, tel.
943-428-465).
