Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Museum of San Telmo (San Telmo Museoa)
A recent addition to this fascinating museum innovatively wrapped a modern facade
around a 16th-century Dominican convent and its peaceful cloister. It's now the largest
museum of Basque culture in the country. Exhibits of archaeological and ethnographic ar-
tifacts demonstrate the traditional folkways of Basque life and vividly tell the history of
the region. An art-historical painting collection features a few gems (El Greco, Rubens,
Tintoretto), while 19th- and 20th-century paintings by Basque artists offer an interesting
peek into the spirit, faces, and natural beauty of these fiercely independent people.
Cost and Hours: €5,freeonTue,openTue-Sun10:00-20:00,closedMon,PlazaZu-
loaga 1, tel. 943-481-580, www.santelmomuseoa.com .
Bretxa Public Market (Mercado de la Bretxa)
Wandering through the public market is a fun way to get in touch with San Sebastián
and Basque culture. Although the sandstone market building facing the Boulevard and the
large, former Pescadería building have both been converted into a modern shopping com-
plex, the farmers' produce market thrives here (lined up along the left side of the mall), as
does the fish and meat market (underground).
Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00-14:00 & 17:00-20:00, Sat 8:00-14:00, closed Sun, Bretxa
Plaza.
Visiting the Market: To get to the modern fish and meat market, walk past the pro-
ducevendors(lookundertheeavesofthebuildingtoseewhatthefarmersareselling),and
find a big glass cube in the square, where an escalator takes you down into the market.
Atthebottomoftheescalator,noticethe fish stall ontheleft(marked J.Ma.Mujika ).
Inthecase,you'llseedifferentcutsof bacalao (cod).Entirebookshavebeenwrittenabout
the importance of cod to the evolution of seafaring in Europe. The fish could be preserved
insalttofeedsailorsonever-longertripsintotheNorthAtlantic, allowingthemtoventure
beyondthecontinentalshelf(intodeeperwaterswheretheycouldn'tcatchfreshfish).Cod
was also popular among Catholic landlubbers on Fridays. Today cod remains a Basque
staple. People still buy the salted version, which must be soaked for 48 hours (and the
water changed three times) to become edible. If you're in a rush, you can buy de-salted
cod...but at a cost in flavor. Stroll behind this stall to explore the fresh fish market—often
with the catch of the day set up in cute little scenes. Few fish stands are open on Monday,
because boats don't go out on Sunday; even fishermen need a day off. There's a free WC
in the market—just ask “¿Dónde está el servicio, por favor?”
When you're done exploring, take the escalator up, turn left, and cross the street to
the Aitor Lasa cheese shop (Mon-Fri 8:30-14:00 & 17:15-20:00, Sat 8:30-14:30, closed
Sun, Aldamar 12, tel. 943-430-354). Pass the fragrant piles of mushrooms at the entrance
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