Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ambience. They offer a free sangria to diners with this topic. Portions are huge; their €20
ttoro
(seafood stew) easily feeds two—splitting is OK if you order two starters (€20-25
menus,
closed Tue-Wed Oct-May, 19 Rue de la République, tel. 05 59 26 37 80).
Le Kaiku
is
the
gastronomic experience in St-Jean-de-Luz. They serve modern, cre-
atively presented cuisine, and specialize in wild seafood (rather than farmed). This dressy
place is the most romantic in town, but manages not to be stuffy (€25 lunch
menus,
€30
dinner
menus
, closed Tue-Wed except July-Aug, 17 Rue de la République, tel. 05 59 26
1320,
www.kaiku.fr
,
Serge and Julie). Forthe best experience, talk with Serge about what
you like best and your price limits (about €55 will get you a three-course meal
à la carte
without wine).
Chez Maya Petit Grill Basque
serves hearty traditional Basque cuisine. Their €18
ttoro
was a highlight of my day. They have €21 and €30
menus,
but à la carte is more in-
teresting. If you stick around in warm weather, you'll see the clever overhead fan system
kick into action (closed for lunch Mon and Thu and all day Wed, 2 Rue St. Jacques, tel. 05
59 26 80 76).
Zoko Moko
offers Mediterranean nouvelle cuisine, with artistic creations on big
plates. Get an
amuse-bouche
(an appetizer chosen by the chef) and a
mignardise
(a fun
bite-sized dessert) with each main plate ordered (€25 lunchtime
plats
, €43 evening
menu,
closed Mon, Rue Mazarin 6, tel. 05 59 08 01 23,
www.zoko-moko.com
,
owner Charles).
Fast and Cheap:
Consider the take-away crêpe stands on Rue Gambetta. For a sit-
down salad or a tart—either sweet or savory—consider
Muscade Tarterie
(€8-13 per
slice; closed Mon; 20 Rue Garat, tel. 05 59 26 96 73).
Sweets:
Maison Pariès
is a favorite for its traditional sweets. Locals like their fine
chocolates,
tartes,
macaroons, fudge
(kanougas),
and
touron
(like marzipan, but firmer),
which comes in a multitude of flavors—brought by Jews who stopped here just over the
border in 1492 after being expelled from Spain. The delectable chocolate version of the
gâteau basque
is also worth a try (9 Rue Gambetta, tel. 05 59 26 01 46).
The train station in St-Jean-de-Luz is called St-Jean-de-Luz-Ciboure. Its handy departure
board displays lights next to any trains leaving that day. Buses leave from the green build-
ing across the street. There is reduced bus and rail service on Sundays and off-season.
From St-Jean-de-Luz by Train to: Bayonne
(hourly, 25 minutes),
St-Jean-Pied-
de-Port
(5/day, 6/day in summer, 2 hours with transfer in Bayonne),
Paris
(5/day direct
via high-speed TGV, 5.5 hours; more with transfer in Bordeaux, 6 hours),
Bordeaux
(7/
