Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
it shows. Pastry shops serve Basque specialties, and store windows proudly display berets
(a Basque symbol). Ice-cream lickers stroll traffic-free streets, while soft, sandy beaches
tempt travelers to toss their itineraries into the bay. The knobby little mountain La Rhune
towersabovethefestivescene.Localsjokethatifit'sclearenoughtoseeLaRhune'speak,
it's going to rain, but if you can't see it, it's raining already.
The town has little of sightseeing importance, but it's a good base for exploring the
Basque Country and a convenient beach and port town that provides the most enjoyable
dose of Basque culture in France. The town fills with French tourists in July and
August—especially the first two weeks of August, when it's practically impossible to find
a room without a reservation made long in advance...or even walk down the main street.
It Happened at Hendaye
If taking the train between the Spanish and French Basque regions, you'll change
trainsatthenondescriptlittleHendayeStation.Whileitseemsinnocentenough,this
was the site of a fateful meeting between two of Europe's most notorious 20th-cen-
tury dictators.
InthedaysbeforeWorldWarII,AdolfHitlerandFranciscoFrancomaintained
a diplomatic relationship. But after the fall of France, they decided to meet secretly
in Hendaye to size each other up. On October 23, 1940, Hitler traveled through
Nazi-occupiedFrance,thenwaitedimpatientlyontheplatformforFranco'sdelayed
train. The over-eager Franco hopedthe Führerwouldinvite him tojoin inamilitary
alliance with Germany (and ultimately share in the expected war spoils).
According to reports of the meeting, Franco was greedy, boastful, and mis-
guided, leading Hitler to dismiss him as a buffoon. Franco later spun the situation
byclaiming that hehadcleverly avoided beingpulled intoWorldWarII.Infact, his
own incompetence is what saved Spain. Had Franco made a better impression on
Hitler here at Hendaye, it's possible that Spain would have entered the war, which
could have changed the course of Spanish, German, and European history.
St-Jean-de-Luz's old city lies between the train tracks, the Nivelle River, and the Atlantic.
The main traffic-free street, Rue Gambetta, channels walkers through the center, halfway
between the train tracks and the ocean. The small town of Ciboure, across the river, holds
nothing of interest.
