Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
An hour east of Sarlat, this historic town with its dramatic rock-face setting is a
▲▲
sight after dark. Once one of Europe's top pilgrimage sites, today it feels more tacky than
spiritual. Still, if you can get into the medieval mindset, its peaceful and dramatic set-
ting—combined with the memory of the countless thousands of faithful who trekked from
all over Europe to worship here—overwhelms the kitschy tourism, and it becomes a nice
(short) stop.
Thosewhovisitonlyduringthedaymightwonderwhytheybothered,asthere'slittle
to do here except climb the pilgrims' steps (with scads of people who aren't pilgrims) to a
few churches, and then stare at the view. Travelers who arrive late and spend the night en-
joyfewercrowds—andafloodlitspectacle.ToscenicallyconnectRocamadourandSarlat,
follow the driving tour outlined in the previous section.
Rocamadour has three basic levels, connected by steps or elevators. The bottom level (La
Cité Médiévale, or simply La Cité) is a long, single pedestrian street lined with shops and
restaurants. The sanctuary level (Cité Religieuse) is up 223 holy steps from La Cité. Its
centerpiece is a church with seven chapels gathered around a small square. A switchback
trail, the Way of the Cross (Chemin de la Croix), leads from La Cité Religieuse to the top
level (called L'Hospitalet) and château (public access to ramparts only) that crowns the
cliff and offers a great view and free parking. For most, the goal is the sanctuary at mid-
level.
