Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
$$ Moulin la Grangère,
dreamily wrapped in hills of vineyards, offers the perfect
haven from which to appreciate the Bordeaux wine country. Charming Marie-Annick and
Alain Noel rent three modern rooms in a well-renovated, blue-shuttered 19th-century mill
with manicured gardens, a big pool, a
pétanque
court, and sublime scenery in every dir-
ection (Db-€80, Tb/Qb-€100, €10 less for stays of 2 nights or more, includes breakfast,
cash only, guest computer, Wi-Fi, tel. 05 57 24 72 51,
www.moulin-la-grangere.com
,
alain.noel25@orange.fr
)
. It's 10 minutes from St-Emilion, near St-Christophe des Bardes
(head up D-243E-1 from its intersection with D-245, then look for the small
Moulin la
Grangère
signs, on the left in about 200 yards).
SkipmostofthecafésliningthestreetbytheTIandinsteadheadtothemelt-in-your-chair
square, Place du Marché.
Amelia-Canta Café
is
the
happeningspotonPlaceduMarchéforlunchordinneron
a warm evening. It has café fare, salads, and veggie options (€16-25
menus,
daily March-
Nov, 2 Place de l'Eglise Monolithe, tel. 05 57 74 48 03).
L'Envers du Décor
wine bar-bistro is about fun, wine, and food—in that order. It's
perfect for this wine-happy town: The restaurant's tabletops are wooden wine crates, and
the floor is paved with cool blue-and-brown tiles. Meat dishes are their forte (lunch
menus
from€19,dinner
menus
from€30,daily,afewdoorsfromtheTIat11RueduClocher,tel.
05 57 74 48 31).
Logis de la Cadène
has street appeal with a pleasing patio terrace, a warm interior,
and fine, traditional cuisine (€25-32
menus
, closed Sun-Mon, just above Amelia-Canta
Café at 3 Place du Marché du Bois, tel. 05 57 24 71 40).
L'Huitrîer Pie,
a local favorite, serves up the town's best oysters, fish, and other
seafood. Cool terraces flank the restaurant (€36 standard
menu,
€52 tasting
menu,
closed
Tue-Wed, at the lower/south end of town on 11 Rue de la Porte Bouqueyre, tel. 05 57 24
69 71).
Many find this remote, less-visited section of the Dordogne (Quercy
région
) even more
beautiful than the countryside around Sarlat. Its undisputed highlight is the pilgrimage
townofRocamadour,butthere'ssomuchmoretosee.Foragoodintroductiontothisarea,
follow this self-guided driving tour connecting Sarlat and Rocamadour.
