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like Grandma's, but with modern conveniences. Several family-friendly wooden chalets
have two rooms, private decks, and kitchenettes. You'll be expected to dine here—and
you'd be a fool not to, since dinner includes everything from apéritif to digestif, with five
courses in between and wine throughout (Db-€60, breakfast-€8, half-board-€62/person,
lower rates for kids, 4-person chalet-€124 per night plus linen fee, cash only, large pool,
en route to Abri du Cap Blanc—look for any sign that says Veyret, tel. 05 53 29 68 44,
www.auberge-veyret.com , contact@auberge-veyret.com ) .
$$ Le Chevrefeuille, halfway between Les Eyzies-de-Tayac and St-Cyprien, is a
family-friendly place offering modern comfort in a farm setting. Warm and helpful Ian
and Sara Fisk moved to France from England (via Brazil) to raise their children, and ex-
pert cook Ian prepares scrumptious dinners several nights a week in season. Five guest
rooms and suites in various configurations handle singles to family groups; common areas
include a lounge and kitchen area (Db-€70-90, family rooms/suites-€110-160, includes
breakfast, pay laundry facilities, cash only, swimming pool and play areas, closed Nov-
Easter, tel. 05 53 59 47 97, www.lechevrefeuille.com , info@lechevrefeuille.com ). From
near Les Eyzies, head south on D-48 about six kilometers, turn right into the small hamlet
of Pechboutier, and look for their sign.
Caves near Les Eyzies-de-Tayac
▲▲▲ Grotte de Font-de-Gaume
Even if you're not a connoisseur of Cro-Magnon art, you'll dig this cave—the last one in
France with prehistoric multicolored (polychrome) paintings still open to the public. (Las-
caux—45 minutes down the road—has replica caves for visitors instead.) Access to Font-
de-Gaumeisextremelyrestricted,withmanyfewerslotsforluckyvisitorsallowedineach
day than there are for those who want to get lucky. Your only chance is to arrive early (see
below for details) and pray that today is your lucky day.
▲▲▲
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