Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the US live less than two months, and are plumped with hormones). Their “golden
weeks” are the last three or four, when they go into the pen to have their livers
fattened. With two or three feedings a day, their liver grows from about a quarter-
pound to nearly two pounds. A goose with a fattened liver looks like he's waddling
around with a full diaper under his feathers. (Signs and placards in the towns of the
regionshowgeesewiththisuniqueand,forfoie-graslovers,mouthwateringshape.)
The same process is applied to ducks to get the marginally less exquisite and less
expensive duck-liver foie gras.
The varieties of product you'll be tempted to buy (or order in restaurants) can
beconfusing.Here'saprimer:first,
foiegras
means“fattenedliver”;
foiegrasd'oie
is from a goose, and
foie gras de canard
is from a duck (you'll also see a blend of
the two).
Pâté de foie gras
is a “paste” of foie gras combined with other meats, fats,
and seasonings (think of liverwurst). Most American consumers get the chance to
eat foie gras only in the form of pâtés.
The
foiegrasd'oieentier
(asolidchunkofpuregooseliver)isthemostexpens-
ive and prized version of canned foie gras, costing about €18 for 130 grams (about
a tuna-can-size tin). The
bloc de foie gras d'oie
is made of chunks of pure goose
liverthathavebeenpressedtogether;it'smoreeasilyspreadable(figure€14for130
grams). The
medaillons de foie gras d'oie
must be at least 50 percent foie gras (the
rest will be a pâté filler, about €8 for 130 grams). A small tin of blended duck-and-
goosefoiegrascostsabout€5.Whenchoosing,lookfora
“productionlocale”
label
to be assured that your foie gras is indeed locally made. Note: Airport security may
require you to carry these in your checked baggage, not your carry-on.
After a week in the Dordogne, I leave feeling a strong need for foie gras detox.
La Petite Tonnelle,
cut into the rock, has a romantic interior and a fine terrace out
front. Locals love it for its tasty cuisine served at fair prices. It's a block up from Hôtel du
Château (€17-33
menus,
on the road to the castle, tel. 05 53 29 95 18).
Foie Gras Farms
Duringtheevenings,manyfarmsinthisarealetyouwitnesstheforce-feedingofgeesefor
the “ultimate pleasure” of foie gras. Look for
Gavage
signs, but beware: It's hard for the
squeamish to watch (read the sidebar for a description before you visit).
