Travel Reference
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dows. Four rooms can sleep up to three people, and one has a full kitchen and there's
a pool in the back (Sb-€50-60, Db-€70-88, guest computer, Wi-Fi, tel. 05 53 29 19 20,
www.hotel-beynac-dordogne.com , contact@hotel-beynac-dordogne.com ) .
$ Le Petit Versailles does its name justice, with five immaculate rooms that Louis
would have appreciated. The place has a quiet terrace and garden, and—best of all—the
welcoming Fleurys, Jean-Claude and Françoise, who speak just enough English (Db-€70,
2-night minimum, 3 rooms have fine views, all have big beds, includes large English
breakfast, cash only, no smoking anywhere, guest computer, Wi-Fi, laundry facilities,
Route du Château, mobile 06 71 88 59 72, www.lepetitversailles.fr ,
info@lepetitversailles.fr ) . With the river on your right, take the small road—wedged
between the hill andHôtel Bonnet—for ahalf-mile, turnright whenyousee the Résidence
de Versailles sign and continue 100 yards, then take a right down a steep driveway.
Eating in Beynac
Beynac has a handful of worthwhile restaurants and a bakery with handy picnic-ready
lunchitems(acrossfromtheTI).Haveadrinkuphighatthecaféoppositethecastleentry,
or down below at the café that hides right on the river (walk down the steps across from
Hôtel du Château); stay for dinner if the spirit moves you.
Hôtel du Château featuresarelaxeddiningroom,air-conditionedcomfort,andreas-
onable prices (€22-39 dinner menus , great €19 omelet aux cèpes , daily, see hotel listing
earlier). From mid-June through mid-September, they offer a light, “between meals” mid-
afternoon option for those too late for lunch and too starving to wait until dinnertime—a
typical dilemma for busy tourists on the river.
Taverne/Café des Remparts, Beynac's scenic eatery, faces the castle at the top of
thetownandservescopioussalads,goodomelets,and plats .Ican'timagineleavingBeyn-
ac without relaxing at their view-perfect café for at least a drink; it's best at night. Sophie
promises a free apéritif with this topic in 2014. Call ahead to be sure they're open (July-
Aug daily for lunch and dinner, otherwise open daily for lunch and weekends for dinner,
closed in winter, across from castle, tel. 05 53 29 57 76).
Foie Gras and Force-Feeding the Geese and Ducks
Force-feeding geese and ducks has the result of quickly fattening their livers, the
principal ingredient of the Dordogne specialty foie gras. The practice is as contro-
versial among animal-rights activists as bullfighting. And though some view these
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