Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The most striking stretch of the Dordogne lies between Carsac and Beynac. Traveling by
canoe is the best way to savor the highlights of the Dordogne River Valley, though several
scenic sights lie off the river and require a car or bike. Following my “Dordogne Scenic
Loop” directions (below), you can easily link Sarlat with La Roque-Gageac, Beynac and
its château, and Castelnaud before returning to Sarlat.
Planning Your Time
Drivers should allow a minimum of a half-day to sample the river valley (a full day if they
toss in a cave visit). Drive slowly to savor the scenery and to stay out of trouble (these
are narrow, cliff-hanging roads). The area is picnic-perfect, but buy your supplies before
leaving Sarlat; pickings are slim in the villages (though view cafés are in full supply).
Vitrac (near Sarlat) is the best place to park for a canoe ride down the river. La Roque-
Gageac, Beynac, and Domme have good restaurants. There are a few good places to wit-
ness the
gavage
(feeding of the geese and ducks to make foie gras) between Beynac and
Sarlat—their dinnertime is generally about 18:00.
You'll pay €3 for all-day parking in most villages (display your parking chit on your
dashboard; cars are checked).
I've given distances for drivers in kilometers to match up with your rental car's odo-
meter.
▲▲▲
Dordogne Scenic Loop
Following these directions, beginning and ending in Sarlat, you can see this area by car
or bike (27 hilly miles). Cyclists can cut seven miles off this distance and still see most
of the highlights by following D-704 from Sarlat toward Cahors, then taking the Montfort
turn-off(well-signedattheroundaboutbythebigLeclercgrocerystore)andtrackingsigns
Roque-Gageac.
Remember that most of the stops along this route are described in detail later in this
chapter (see “Dordogne Towns and Sights”).
The Tour Begins:
From Sarlat, follow signs on D-704 toward
Cahors
and
Carsac.
Not long after leaving Sarlat, you'll pass the Rougie foie gras outlet store, then the lime-
stone quarry that gives the houses in this area their lemony color. In about five minutes,
