Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Rue de la Salamandre: The salamander—unfazed by fire or water—was Sarlat's
mascot. Befitting its favorite animal, Sarlat was also unfazed by fire (from war) and
water (from floods). Walk several steps down this “Street of the Salamander” and find
the Gothic-framed doorway just below on your right. Step back and notice the tower that
housed the staircase. Staircase towers like this (Sarlat has about 20) date from about 1600
(after the wars of religion between the Catholics and Protestants), when the new nobility
needed to show off.
• Continue downhill, passing under the salamander-capped arch, and pause near (or bet-
ter, sit down at) the café on the...
Place de la Liberté: This has been Sarlat's main market square since the Middle
Ages, though it was significantly expanded in the 18th century. Sarlat's patriotic town hall
stands behind you (with a café perfectly situated for people-watching). You can't miss
the dark stone roofs topping the buildings across the square. They're typical of this re-
gion: Called lauzes in French, the flat limestone rocks were originally gathered by farm-
ers clearing their fields, then made into cheap, durable roofing material (today few people
can afford them). The unusually steep pitch of the lauzes roofs—which last up to 300
years—helps distribute the weight of the roof (about 160 pounds per square foot) over a
greater area. Although most lauze roofs have been replaced by roofs made from more af-
fordablematerials,agreatnumberremain.Thesmallwindowiscritical:Itprovidesaircir-
culation, allowing the lichen that coat the porousstone to grow—sealing gaps between the
stones and effectively waterproofing the roof. Without that layer, the stone would crumble
after repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles.
• Walk right, to the “upper” end of the square. The bulky Church of Ste. Marie, right
across from you, today serves as Sarlat's...
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