Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
most common) from just east of the Dordogne (usually in big rounds), and Tomme and
Brébis (sheep cheeses) from the Pyrenees to the south.
Truffles (truffes): Only the bigger markets will have these ugly, jet-black tubers on
display. Truffle season is our off-season (Nov-Feb), when you'll find them at every mar-
ket. During summer, the fresh truffles you might see are truffes d'été , a less desirable and
cheaper, but still tasty species. If you see truffles displayed at other times, they've been
sterilized (a preservative measure that can reduce flavor). On Sarlat market days, there's
usually a guy in the center of Place de la Liberté with a photo of his grandfather and his
truffle-hunting dog.
Anything with Walnuts (aux noix): Pain aux noix is a thick-as-a-brick bread loaf
chock-full of walnuts. Moutarde de noix is walnut mustard. Confiture de noix is a walnut
spread for hors d'oeuvres. Gâteaux de noix are tasty cakes studded with walnuts. Liqueur
de noix is a marvelous creamy liqueur, great over ice or blended with a local white wine.
Goose or Duck Livers and Pâté (foiegras):Thisspreadismadefromgeese(better)
and ducks (still good), or from a mix of the two. You'll see two basic forms: entier and
bloc . Both are 100 percent foie gras; entier is a piece cut right from the product, whereas
bloc has been blended to make it easier to spread— mousse has been whipped for an even
creamier consistency. Foie gras is best accompanied by a sweet white wine (such as the
locally produced Monbazillac, or Sauterne from Bordeaux). You can bring the unopened
tins back into the US, pas de problème . For more on foie gras, see the sidebar on here .
Confit de Canard: At butcher stands, look for hunks of duck smothered in white fat,
justwaitingforsomeonetotakethemhomeandcookthemup.Ifyouhavekitchenaccess,
try it: Simply scrape off some of the fat, then sauté the chunks until they're crispy on the
outside and heated through. Save some of that fat for roasting potatoes.
Dried Sausages (saucissons secs): Long tables piled high with dried sausages
covered in herbs or stuffed with local goodies are a common sight in French markets.
You'll always be offered a mouth-watering sample. Some of the variations you'll see in-
clude porc, canard (duck), fumé (smoked), à l'ail (garlic), cendré (rolled in ashes), aux
myrtilles (with blueberries), sanglier (wild boar), and even âne (donkey)—and, but of
course, aux noix (with walnuts).
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