DORDOGNE - France 2014 - page 622

Choosing a Home Base
Sarlat is the only viable solution for train travelers, but those with a car should consider
sleeping riverside in La Roque-Gageac (a beautiful village with good hotels) or Beynac
(a très photogenic village with good chambres d'hôtes and hotels). For a grand château
hotel experience that won't break the bank, sleep near the Lascaux caves at Château de
la Fleunie (30 minutes north of Sarlat; see here ). For the best view hotel I've found in
the area, try Hôtel de l'Esplanade in Domme (see here ) . If you'd rather frolic on a real
farm, sleep near Les Eyzies-de-Tayac at Auberge Veyret (see here ) . For a list of good
chambres d'hôtes near Sarlat, try www.chambres-perigord.com (in French, but easy to
navigate—click Entrée, then on the upper-left, click Chambres/Auberges ).
Getting Around the Dordogne
This region is a joy with a car, and tough without one. Consider renting a car for a day,
renting a canoe or bike, or taking a minivan excursion. If you're up for a splurge, consider
a hot-air balloon ride (see here ) .
By Train: Connecting the Dordogne's sights by train is next to impossible. The only
helpful train runs from Sarlat to Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, with a Prehistory Welcome Center
andmuseumandtheGrottedeFont-de-Gaume(3-4/day,transferinLeBuisson,somelong
waits, 15-minute walk from station to museum, 30-minute walk from station to Font-de-
Gaume cave).
By Car: Roadsaresmall,slow,andscenic.Thereisnoautorouteintheremoteregion
near Sarlat, so you'll need more travel time than usual. Little Sarlat is routinely snarled
withtrafficonmarketdays—particularlySaturdays.YoucanrentacarinSarlat(see here ) ,
though bigger cities, such as Libourne, Périgueux, and Brive-la-Gaillarde, offer greater
drop-off flexibility. In summer (mid-June-mid-Sept), you'll pay to park in most villages'
riverfrontlotsbetween10:00and19:00.Leavenothinginyourcaratnight—thievesenjoy
the Dordogne, too.
By Taxi: For taxi service from Sarlat to Beynac or La Roque-Gageac, allow €33
(€39 at night and on Sun); from Sarlat to Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, allow €46 one-way
(€66 at night and on Sun) or €88 round-trip. Philippe (see next) can often pick you
up within a few minutes if you call. Corinne, who runs Beynac-based Taxi Corinne,
is helpful, speaks a little English, and is eager to provide good service to tourists (can
provide regional as well as local transport, tel. [phone], mobile [phone],
[e-mail] ) .
By Custom Taxi/Minivan Excursion: You have a few good options. Allô-Philippe
Taxi is run by amiable Philippe, who speaks enough English. He will custom-design your
tour, help with cave reservations, and provide some commentary during your excursion.