Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The joys of the Dordogne include rock-sculpted villages, fertile farms surrounding
I-should-retire-here cottages, memory-card-gobbling vistas, lazy canoe rides, and a local
cuisine worth loosening your belt for. But its big draw is its amazing cache of prehistoric
artifacts. Limestone caves decorated with prehistoric artwork litter the Dordogne region.
Planning Your Time
Althoughtouristsinundatetheregioninthesummer,theDordogne'scharmisprotectedby
its relative inaccessibility. Given the time it takes to get here, I'd allow a minimum of two
nights (ideally three) and most of two days...or I'd skip it. Your sightseeing obligations, in
order of priority, are as follows: prehistoric cave art; the Dordogne River Valley, nearby
villages, and castles; the town of Sarlat; and, if you have a bit more time, the less-traveled
LotRiverValley(mostefficientlyviewedwhenheadingtoorfromthesouth).Winelovers
work in a pilgrimage to St-Emilion, two hours west of Sarlat.
If you're connecting the Dordogne with the Loire region by car, the fastest path is
on the A-20 autoroute (exit at Souillac for Sarlat and nearby villages). Break up your trip
from the north by stopping in Oradour-sur-Glane. If you need to spend the night in this
area, consider tiny Mortemart. If you're connecting the Dordogne and Carcassonne, ex-
plore the Lot River Valley on your way south. If heading west, taste the Bordeaux wine
region's prettiest town, St-Emilion.
Those serious about visiting the Dordogne's best caves (especially with a relatively
rare English-speaking tour) need to plan carefully and book ahead when possible (ex-
The following three-day itinerary is designed for drivers, but it's doable—if you're
determined—by taxi rides, a canoe trip (the best way to see the Dordogne regardless of
whether you've got a car), and a minivan tour.
Day 1:
Enjoy a morning in Sarlat (ideally on a market day—Sat or Wed), then spend
theafternoononacanoetrip,withtimeattheday'sendtoexploreBeynacandCastelnaud.
If it's not market day in Sarlat, do the canoe trip, Beynac, and Castelnaud first, and enjoy
the late afternoon and evening in Sarlat. (Because the town's essential sights are outdoors,
my Sarlat self-guided walk works great after dinner.) The sensational views from Castel-
naud's castle and Domme are best in the morning; visit Beynac's castle or viewpoint late
in the day for the best light. With a little lead time, canoe-rental companies can pick up
non-drivers in Sarlat. Taxis are reasonable between Sarlat and the river villages.
