THE LOIRE - France 2014 - page 599

$ Hôtel Agnès Sorel, at the western end of town, sits on the river and is handy
for drivers, but it's a 30-minute walk from the train station and has some traffic noise.
Of its ten sharp rooms, a few have river views, some have balconies, and five surround
a small courtyard. Friendly owner Christine speaks English (Db-€50-60, bigger Db-€85,
big Db suite-€110, T/Qb suite-€135, Wi-Fi in lobby, 4 Quai Pasteur, tel. [phone],
www.hotel-agnes-sorel.com , [e-mail] ) .
$ Hôtel de la Treille has five rugged and rustic rooms for budget travelers (D-€32,
Db-€42, Tb-€52, 4 Place Jeanne d'Arc, tel. [phone], no email, no overhead).
Outside Chinon, near Ligré
$$$ Le Clos de Ligré lets you sleep in farmhouse silence, surrounded by vineyards and
farmland. A 10-minute drive from Chinon, it has room to roam, a pool overlooking the
vines, and a billiards room with a baby grand piano. English-speaking Martine Descamps
spoils her guests with cavernous and creatively decorated rooms (Db-€110, good family
rooms, includes breakfast, €35 dinner includes the works, cash only, Wi-Fi, 37500 Ligré,
tel. [phone], mobile [phone], www.le-clos-de-ligre.com , mdescamps@club-
internet.fr ) . From Chinon, cross the river and go toward Richelieu on D-749, turn right on
D-115, and continue for about five kilometers (three miles). Turn left, following signs to
Ligré, and look for signs to Le Clos de Ligré (see map on here ) .
Eating in Chinon
For a low-stress meal with ambience, choose one of the cafés on the photogenic Place du
Général de Gaulle. Many of these are closed Wednesday: Check before you go.
L'Océanic, in the thick of the pedestrian zone, is where locals go for fish and tasty
desserts. It has the best wine list in town, formal indoor or relaxed outdoor seating, and
chic Marie-Poule to take your order ( menus from €26, closed Sun-Mon, 13 Rue Rabelais,
tel. [phone]).
Les Saveurs d'Italie is a cheap and cheery deli/diner with a warm greeting and the
town's best Italian cuisine (€10 pizzas and pasta, limited outside seating, closed Sun-Mon,
next to TI at 3 Impasse J. Macé, tel. [phone]).
Restaurant-Musée Animé du Vin et de la Tonnellerie is a simple, one-man show
where jolly Dédé dishes up all the wine you can drink and fouées you can eat (little pastry
shells filled with garlic paste, cheese, or rillettes —that's a meat spread), accompanied by
mâche -and-walnut salad, green beans, dessert fouées , wine, and coffee—all for €19. Let
your hair down in this get-to-know-your-neighbor kind of place as you watch Dédé slap