Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Inthe
courtyard,
studytheentertainingspoutsanddecoronthewalls,andremember
that this space was originally enclosed on all sides.
The
stables
(ecuries)
wereentirelyrebuiltinthe1880s.Themedallionabovethegate
reads
pour l'avenir
(for the future), which shows off an impressive commitment to horse
technology. Inside, circle clockwise—you can almost hear the clip-clop of horses walk-
ing. Notice the deluxe horse stalls, padded with bins and bowls for hay, oats, and water,
complete with a strategically placed drainage gutter. The horses were named for Greek
gods and great châteaux. The Horse Kitchen (Cuisine des Chevaux) produced mash twice
weekly for the animals. The “finest tack room in all of France” shows off horse gear. Bey-
ond the covered alcove where the horse and carriage were prepared for the prince, you'll
seefourcarriages parkedandreadytogo.Finally,theroundformerkilnwasredesignedto
be a room for training the horses.
The estate is a
tree garden,
set off by a fine lawn. Trees were imported from
throughout the Mediterranean world to be enjoyed—and to fend off any erosion on this
strategic bluff.
Loches
The overlooked town of Loches (lohsh), located about 30 minutes south of Amboise,
makes a good base for drivers wanting to visit sights east and west of Tours (in effect tri-
angulating between Amboise and Chinon), but has no easy train or bus connections. This
pretty town sits on the region's loveliest river, the Indre, and holds an appealing mix of
medieval monuments, stroll-worthy streets, and fewer tourists. Its château dominates the
skyline and is worth a short visit. The Wednesday and Saturday street markets are lively;
the Saturday market takes over many streets in the old city.
Sleeping in Loches:
For an overnight stay, try
$$ Hôtel George Sand***,
located
on the river, with a well-respected restaurant, an idyllic terrace, and rustic, comfortable
rooms (Db-€60-72, luxury Db-€135, Tb-€95, Wi-Fi, no elevator, 300 yards south of
TI at 39 Rue Quintefol, tel. 02 47 59 39 74,
www.hotelrestaurant-georgesand.com
,
Valençay
The Renaissance château of Valençay (vah-lahn-say) is a massive, luxuriously furnished
structure with echoes of its former owner Talleyrand (a famous French diplomat who
helped broker the Louisiana Purchase). It has a killer kitchen, lovely gardens, kid-friendly
