Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Double back through the gallery to find the sensational state-of-the-art (in the 16th
century)
kitchen
below. It was built near water (to fight the inevitable kitchen fires) and
in the basement; because heat rises, the placement helped heat the palace. Cross the small
bridge (watch your head) to find the stove and landing bay for goods to be ferried in and
out.
The staircase leading
upstairs
wowed royal guests. It was the first non-spiral stair-
case they'd seen...quite a treat in the 16th century. The balcony provides lovely views
of the gardens—which originally supplied vegetables and herbs. (Diane built the one to
the right; Catherine, the prettier one to your left.) The estate is still full of wild boar and
deer—the primary dishes of past centuries. You'll see more lavish bedrooms on this floor.
Find the small side rooms that show fascinating old architectural sketches of the château.
The walls, 20 feet thick, were honeycombed with the flues of 224 fireplaces and passages
for servants to do their pleasure-providing work unseen. There was no need for plumbing.
Servants fetched, carried, and dumped everything pipes do today. The long room stretch-
ing over the river usually contains a temporary modern-art exhibit.
Hotels are a good value in Chenonceaux, and there's one for every budget. You'll find
them
tous ensemble
on Rue du Dr. Bretonneau, all with free and secure parking.
$$$ Auberge du Bon Laboureur****
turns heads with its ivied facade, lush ter-
races, and, inside, leathery lounges and bars. The staff acts a tad stiff, but if you get past
theformalpleasantries,youhavefour-starroomsatthree-starprices(Db-€140-200,suites-
€210-300, breakfast-€15, pool, air-con, 6 Rue du Dr. Bretonneau, tel. 02 47 23 90 02,
