THE LOIRE - France 2014 - page 550

whenaking'sromantic interest shiftedelsewhere. Inmanycases,thekingorminis-
terwouldbeawayatworkoratwarforyearsatatime—leavinghome-improvement
decisions to the lady of the château, who had unlimited money. That helps explain
theemphasis oncomfortandthefeminine touchyou'llenjoywhiletouringmanyof
the Loire châteaux.
In1525,FrançoisImovedtohisnewlybuiltsuper-palaceatFontainebleau, and
political power left the Loire. From then on, châteaux were mostly used as vacation
and hunting retreats. They become refuges for kings again during the French Wars
of Religion (1562-1598)—a sticky set of squabbles over dynastic control that pitted
Protestants (Huguenots) against Catholics. Its conclusion marked the end of an act-
iveroyalpresenceontheLoire.WiththeFrenchRevolutionin1789,symbolsofthe
Old Regime, like the fabulous palaces along the Loire, were ransacked. Fast talk-
ing saved some châteaux, especially those whose owners had personal relationships
with Revolutionary leaders.
Only in the 1840s did the châteaux of the Loire become appreciated for their
historicvalue.TheLoirewasthefirstplacewheretreasuresofFrenchheritagewere
officially recognized and protected by the national government. In the 19th century,
Romantic Age writers—like Victor Hugo and Alexander Dumas—visited and cel-
ebrated the châteaux. Aristocrats on the Grand Tour stopped here. The Loire Valley
and its historic châteaux found a place in our collective hearts and have been treas-
ured to this day.
Biking from Amboise
A signed bike route takes you to Chenonceaux (about 8 miles one-way) in about an hour.
Leading past Leonardo's Clos-Lucé, the first two miles are uphill, and the entire ride is on
a road with some traffic. Serious cyclists can continue to Chaumont in 1.5 hours, connect-
ingAmboise, Chenonceaux, andChaumont inanall-day,37-mile pedal(see“Bike Route”
on the map on here ) . The most appealing pedal from Amboise follows the Loire along a
dedicated bike path, though you won't see any great castles. The village of Lussault-sur-
Loire makes an easy destination (2.5 miles one-way), or keep on pedaling to Montlouis,
two miles past Lussault.
Canoe Trips from Amboise or Chenonceaux
Paddling under the Château de Chenonceau is a memorable experience. Canoe Company
offerscanoerentalsontheLoireandCherrivers(€12-22/persondependingonhowfaryou
go, tel. [phone], www.canoe-company.fr ).