Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
past,theLoireisthelastmajorwildriverinFrance,withnodamsandnoregulation
of its flow.
Traditional flat-bottomed boats romantically moored along embankments are a
reminderoftheagebeforetrainsandtrucks,whenrivertrafficsafelyandefficiently
transported heavy loads of stone and timber. With prevailing winds sweeping east
from the Atlantic, barge tenders raised their sails and headed upriver; on the way
back, boats flowed downstream with the current.
With this transportation infrastructure providing (relatively) quick access to
Paris—andtheregion'sthickforests—offeringplentyoftimber,firewood,andhunt-
ingterrain—it'snowonderthatcastleswerebuilthereintheMiddleAges.Thefirst
stonefortresseswentuphereathousandyearsago,andmanyofthepleasurepalaces
you see today rose over the ruins of those original defensive keeps.
The Hundred Years' War—roughly 1336 to 1453—was a desperate time for
France. Because ofa dynastic dispute, the English had a serious claim to the French
throne, and by 1415 they controlled much of the country, including Paris. France
was at a low ebb, and its king and court retreated to the Loire Valley to rule what
remained of their realm. Chinon was the refuge of the dispirited king, Charles VII.
Hewasfamouslyvisited therein1429bythecharismatic JoanofArc,whoinspired
the king to get off his duff and send the English packing.
The French kings continued to live in the Loire region for the next two centur-
ies, having grown comfortable with the château culture of the region. The climate
was mild, hunting was good, dreamy rivers made nice reflections, wealthy friends
lived in similar luxury nearby, and the location was close enough to Paris—but still
far enough away. Charles VII ruled from Chinon, Charles VIII preferred Amboise,
Louis XII reigned from Blois, and François I held court in Chambord and Blois.
This was a kind of cultural Golden Age. With peace and stability, there was
no need for fortifications. The most famous luxury hunting lodges, masquerading
as fortresses, were built during this period—including Chenonceau, Chambord,
Chaumont, Amboise, and Azay-le-Rideau. Kings (François I), writers (Rabelais),
poets (Ronsard), and artists (Leonardo da Vinci) made the Loire a cultural hub.
Many years later, these same châteaux attracted other notables, including Voltaire,
Molière, and Benjamin Franklin.
Because French kings ruled effectively only by being constantly on the move
among their subjects, many royal châteaux were used infrequently. The entire
court—and its trappings—had to be portable. A castle kept empty and cold eleven
months of the year would suddenly become the busy center of attention when
