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Exit into the gardens .They come with grandriver andchâteau views. Each summer,
bleachers are set up for sound-and-light spectacles—a faint echo of the extravaganzas
Leonardo orchestrated for the court. Modern art decorating the garden reminds visitors of
the inquisitive and scientific Renaissance spirit that Leonardo brought to town. The flags
are those of France and Brittany—a reminder that, in a sense, modern France was created
at the nearby château of Langeais when Charles VIII (who was born here) married Anne
of Brittany, adding her domain to the French kingdom.
There are two ways down to Amboise. While you can leave the way you came, it's
moreinterestingtospiraldownthe Heurtault Tower (accessthroughthegiftshopnearthe
topoftheentryramp).Aswiththecastle'sothertower,thiswasdesignedtoaccommodate
asoldier onhorseback. Asyougallop downtotheexit, notice thecute little characters and
scenes left by 15th-century stone carvers. While they needed to behave when decorating
churches and palaces, here they could be a bit racier and more spirited.
Leaving the Château: The turnstile puts you on the road to Château du Clos-
Lucé (described next; turn left and hike straight for 10 minutes). Along the way, you'll
pass troglodyte houses —both new and old—carved into the hillside stone (a type called
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