THE LOIRE - France 2014 - page 542

Stop when you reach the impressive clock tower (Tour de l'Horloge), built into part
of the 15th-century town wall. This was once a fortified gate, opening onto the road to
the city of Tours. Imagine the hefty wood-and-iron portcullis (fortified door) that dropped
from above.
• At the intersection with Rue François I (where you'll be tempted by the Bigot chocolate
shop—see “Helpful Hints,” earlier), turn left a couple of steps to the...
City Hall Museum (Musée de l'Hôtel de Ville): This free museum is worth a quick
peek for its romantic interior, town paintings, and historic etchings (mid-June-mid-Sept
Wed-Mon 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, closed Tue and off-season). In the room dedicated
to Leonardo da Vinci, find his busts and the gripping deathbed painting of him with caring
King François I at his side. In the Salle des Rois (Kings' Room), find portraits of Charles
VIII(whocoldcockedhimselfatAmboise'scastle;moreonthislater)andotherkingswho
called Amboise home; I like to admire their distinct noses.
Upstairs, in the still-functioning city assembly hall (last room), notice how the photo
of the current president faces the lady of the Republic. (According to locals, her features
change with the taste of the generation, and the bust of France's Lady Liberty is often
modeled on famous supermodels of the day.)
• Your walk ends here, but you can easily continue on to the nearby Château Royal
d'Amboise (and beyond that, to Leonardo's last residence): Retrace your steps along Rue
François I to Place Michel Debré, at the base of the château. Here, at one of the most
touristy spots in the Loire, you can feel how important tourism is to the local economy.
Notice the fat, round 15th-century fortified tower, whose interior ramp was built for gal-
loping horses to spiral up to castle level. But to get to the castle without a horse, you'll
have to walk up the long ramp.
Sights in Amboise
▲ Château Royal d'Amboise
ThishistoricheapbecamethefavoredroyalresidenceintheLoireunderCharlesVIII,who
did most of the building in the late 15th century. Charles is famous for accidentally killing
himself by walking into a door lintel on his way to a tennis match (seriously). Later, more
careful occupants include Louis XII (who moved the royal court to Blois) and François
I (who physically brought the Renaissance here in 1516, in the person of Leonardo da
Vinci).
Cost and Hours: €10.50, unnecessary audioguide-€4 (kid's version available), daily
April-Oct9:00-18:00,until19:00July-Aug,shorterhoursoff-season,PlaceMichelDebré,
tel. [phone], www.chateau-amboise.com .