Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
longtime political border. That's why the first Amboise castle was built here. In the 15th
century, this was one of the biggest forts in France.
The half-mile-long “Golden Island” (Ile d'Or) is the only island in the Loire sub-
stantial enough to withstand flooding and to have permanent buildings (including a soccer
stadium, hostel, and 13th-century church). It was important historically as the place where
northern and southern France came together. Truces were made here.
• Walk downstream paralleling the busy street, Quai du Général de Gaulle, and cross it
when you come to the river-front parking lot. Walk up Avenue des Martyrs de la Résist-
ance (the post office—PTT—is on the corner) and find the old church standing proudly on
a bluff to the right (see map).
Church of St. Denis (Eglise St. Denis):
EversinceancientRomanserectedaTemple
of Mars here, this has been a place of worship. According to legend, God sent a bolt of
lightning that knocked down the statue of Mars, and Christians took over the spot. The
current Romanesque church dates from the 12th century. A cute little statue of St. Denis
(above the round arch) greets you as you step in. The delightful carvings capping the
columns inside date from Romanesque times. The lovely (but poorly lit) pastel-painted
Deposition
to the right of the choir is restored to its 16th-century brilliance. The medieval
stainedglassinthewindows,likelydestroyedintheFrenchRevolution,wasreplacedwith
19th-century glass.
From the steps of the church, look out to the hill-capping Amboise château. For a
thousandyears,it'sbeenGodonthishillandthekingonthatone.It'sinterestingtoponder
how,throughoutFrenchhistory,theking'spowergenerallytrumpedtheChurch's,andhow
the Church and the king worked to keep people down—setting the stage for the French
Revolution.
• Retrace your steps down from the church and across Place St. Denis, go past Amboise's
lone cinema, continue walking straight, and follow Rue Nationale through the heart of
town toward the castle.
Rue Nationale:
In France, districts around any castle or church officially classified
as historic are preserved. The broad, pedestrianized Rue Nationale, with its narrow inter-
secting lanes, survives from the 15th century. At that time, when the town spread at the
foot of the king's castle, this was the “Champs-Elysées” of Amboise. Supporting the king
and his huge entourage was a serious industry. The French king spilled money wherever
he stayed.
As you walk along this spine of the town, spot surviving bits of rustic medieval oak
in the half-timbered buildings. The homes of wealthy merchants rose from the chaos of
this street. Side lanes can be more candid—they often show what's hidden behind modern
facades.
