Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Loire Valley's Cuisine Scene
Here in “the garden of France,” locally produced food is delicious. Loire Valley rivers
yield fresh trout (truite), salmon (saumon), and smelt (éperlau), which are often served
fried (friture). Rillettes, a stringy pile of cooked and whipped pork, makes for a cheap,
mouthwatering sandwich spread (use lots of mustard and add a baby pickle, called a cor-
nichon ). Locals love their steak in this area; be on the lookout for pavé (thick hunk of
prime steak), bavette (skirt steak), faux filet (sirloin), and entrecôte (rib-eye steak). Don't
be surprised to see snails, confit de canard, and seafood on menus—the Loire borrows
much from neighboring regions.
Thearea'swonderfulgoatcheesesincludeCrottindeChavignol( crottin meanshorse
dung, which is what this cheese, when aged, resembles), Saint-Maure Fermier (soft and
creamy), and Selles-sur-Cher (mild). For dessert, try a delicious tarte tatin (upside-down
caramel-apple tart).
Remember, restaurants serve food only during lunch (11:30-14:00) and dinner
(19:00-21:00, later in bigger cities); bigger cafés offer eats throughout the day.
Wines of the Loire
Loire wines are overlooked, and that's a shame—there is gold in them thar grapes. The
Loire is France's third-largest producer of wine and grows the greatest variety of any re-
gion. Four main grapes are grown in the Loire: two reds, Gamay and Cabernet Franc, and
two whites, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc.
TheLoire isdivided intofoursubareas, andthename ofawine(its appellation )gen-
erallyreferstowhereitsgrapesweregrown.TheTourainesubareaencompassesthewines
ofChinonandAmboise.Using100percentCabernetFrancgrapes,growersinChinonand
Bourgeuil are the main (and best) producers of reds. Thanks to soil variation and climate
differences year in and out, wines made from a single grape have a remarkable range in
taste. The best and most expensive white wines are the Sancerres, made on the less-tour-
isted eastern edge of the Loire. Less expensive, but still tasty, are Touraine Sauvignons
and the sweeter Vouvray, whose grapes are grown near Amboise. Vouvray is also famous
for its light and refreshing sparkling wines (called vins pétillants )—locals will tell you the
only proper way to begin any meal in this region is with a glass of it, and I can't disagree
(try the rosé pétillant for a fresh sensation). A dry rosé is popular in the Loire in the sum-
mer and can be made from a variety of grapes.
You'll pass scattered vineyards as you travel between châteaux, though there's no
scenic wine road to speak of (the closest thing is around Bourgeuil). Remember that it's
best to call ahead before visiting a winery.
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