THE LOIRE - France 2014 - page 524

Amboise and, to a lesser extent, Blois or Chenonceaux, make the best home bases
for first-timers. Amboise and Blois have handy car or bus/minivan access to these im-
portant châteaux: Chenonceau, Blois, Chambord, Cheverny, Amboise, and Chaumont-sur-
Loire. Amboise has good minivan service to area sights, and drivers appreciate its small
scale and easy parking; Blois has better train connections from Paris and better low-cost
transportation options to nearby sights in high season. Chenonceaux works for drivers and
hardybicyclists. MostvisitorschooseAmboiseforitsjust-rightsizeandmorevariedtour-
ist appeal.
Chinon, Azay-le-Rideau, and their nearby châteaux don't feel as touristy; these
towns appeal to gardeners and road-less-traveled types. The key sights in this area include
the châteaux of Chinon, Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais, Villandry, Chatonnière, Rivau, Ussé,
and the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud. Chinon and Azay-le-Rideau are good for cyclists,
with convenient rental shops, decent access to bike paths, and interesting destinations
within pedaling distance.
Loches is a more remote home-base option for drivers wanting to sleep away from
the tourist fray.
Château Hotels: If ever you wanted to sleep in a castle surrounded by a forest, the
Loire Valley is the place—you have several choices in all price ranges. However, you'll
need a car to get to most of these places. Most of my “castle hotel” recommendations are
within 15 minutes of Amboise (see here ) .
Planning Your Time
With frequent, convenient trains to Paris and a few direct runs right to Charles de Gaulle
Airport, the Loire can be a good first or last stop on your French odyssey (see “Amboise
Connections,” later).
A day and a half is sufficient to sample the best châteaux. Don't go overboard. Two
châteaux, possibly three (if you're a big person), make up the recommended daily dosage.
To help you choose which ones to visit, see the “Loire Valley Châteaux at a Glance” side-
bar,laterinthischapter.Famouschâteauxareleastcrowdedearlyandlateintheday.Most
open at about 9:00 and close between 18:00 and 19:00.
AdaytripfromParistotheLoireisdoable.Several minivanandbustoursmakeget-
tingtothemainchâteauxabreeze(see“ByShuttleBus/VanorMinivanExcursion,”later).
Drivers: ForthesinglebestdayintheLoire,considerthisplan:SleepinornearAm-
boise and visit Chenonceau early (arrive by 9:00), when crowds are small; spend midday
at Chambord (30-minute drive from Chenonceau); and enjoy Chaumont or Cheverny on
the way back to your hotel (the hunting dogs are fed at 17:00 on most days at Cheverny).