Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
themedieval bridgebelowandthepaththatleadsalongtherivertotherighttoLéhon(de-
scribed later, under “Sights in Dinan”). To the left you can follow the Rance River down-
stream as it meanders toward the sea. The English gardens behind you are picnic-pleasant.
• Walk through the gardens to the church behind you, and dip into the...
Church of St. Sauveur:
Enter this asymmetrical church (typical in Brittany) to see
striking,modernstained-glass windowsandabeautifully litnave.Pickupthesimple Eng-
lish explanation and learn the church's raison d'être. The building is a thousand years
old—the wood balcony in the entry confirms that, as it heaves under the weight of the or-
gan. When built, the church sat lonely on this hill, as all other activity was focused around
the port.
•Yourtourisover.Goodlunchcafésareacrossthesquare(see“EatinginDinan,”later),
and you are a block below the main Rue de l'Horloge.
Dinan's Old Port
Following the self-guided walk, you can reach Dinan's modest little port by continuing
downRue duJerzual (which becomes Rue duPetit Fort). Notice the unusual wood-topped
building just before the port (across from Le Cottage restaurant). This was a leather tan-
nery. Those wooden shutters could open to dry the freshly tanned hides while the nearby
river flushed the toxic waste products (happily, swimming was not in vogue then). The
lastbusinessbeforetheportisakillerbakerywithdeliciouslocalspecialties,including
far
breton
and
kouign amann
(you'll also find good picnic fixings and drinks to go). Try the
pomme
crumble. You deserve a baked break.
The port was the birthplace of Dinan a thousand years ago. For centuries, this is
where people lived and worked, and today it's a great place for a riverside drink or snack.
This once-thriving port is connected to the sea—15 miles away—by the Rance River. By
taxing river traffic, the town grew prosperous. The tiny Vieux Pont (Old Bridge) dates to
the15thcentury.Becausetheportareawassoexposed,thetownsfolkretreatedtothebluff
behind its current fortifications. Notice the viaduct high above, built in 1850 to alleviate
congestion and to send traffic around the town. Until then, the main road crossed the tiny
Old Bridge, heading up Rue du Jerzual to Dinan.
