Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the wood columns. Because trees did not come in standard lengths, it was easier to adjust
the size of the pedestals.
Medieval shopkeepers sold goods in front of their homes under the shelter of leaning
walls. Most streets are named for the key commerce that took place there. Wander further
toward the square and locate picturesque Rue de la Cordonnerie (“Shoe Street,” to the left
of the pretty restaurant La Mère Pourcel), a good example of a medieval lane, with over-
hanging buildings whose roofs nearly touch. After a disastrous 18th-century fire, a law re-
quired that the traditional thatch be replaced by safer slate.
• From La Mère Pourcel, go up Rue de la Cordonnerie into a small maze of streets. Walk
through this “pub row,” turn right, and then right again, climbing a set of stairs leading
to a modern market.
La Cohue:
Ifyou'relookingforaplacetogatherapicniclunch,theshiny,renovated
market stalls of La Cohue is it. There's been a market here since the 13th century, but
the ambience today is very 21st century. It has a produce stand, wine store, cheese shop,
bakery, and a rotisserie where you can pick up a roast chicken to go (Tue-Thu 8:00-14:00,
Fri-Sat 8:00-19:00, closed Mon,
www.la-cohue.com
).
• If it's open, walk through the market; otherwise you'll need to backtrack to Place des
Merciers. Continue working your way through the square. (The building with the arched
stone facade at the end of the square—Les Cordeliers—used to be a Franciscan monas-
tery during the Middle Ages; today, it's a middle school...wrap your brain around that
change.) Turn right on Rue de la Lainerie (“Street of Wool Shops”), which becomes...
Rue du Jerzual:
This spiraling road was the primary medieval link to the port and
the focus of commercial activity in old Dinan. The steep cobbled street (slippery when
wet) was chock-a-block with potential customers making their way between the port and
the upper city. Notice the waist-high stone and wooden shelves that front many of the
buildings. Here, medieval merchants could display their products and tempt passersby.
You can continue all the way down to the port (described later, under “Sights in Dinan”);
it'sa10-minutewalkdown(remember,whatgoesdownmustcomebackup).Ifyourknees
balk, follow the path to the ramparts, described next.
