Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Near Rouen
The Route of the Ancient Abbeys (La Route des Anciennes Abbayes)
This route—punctuated with abbeys, apples, and Seine River views—provides a pleasing
detour for drivers connecting Rouen and destinations farther west (if you're traveling
sans
car,skipit).FollowD-982westofRouentoJumièges(visititsabbey),thencrosstheSeine
on the car ferry at Duclair (about €2).
DriverscanstoptoadmirethegleamingRomanesquechurchatthe
Abbey of St. Ge-
orges de Boscherville
(butskiptheabbeygrounds).Theromanticallyruinedtwin-towered
Abbey of Jumièges
is the top sight to visit on this route. Founded in
A.D.
654, it was des-
troyed by Vikings and rebuilt by William the Conqueror, only to be torn down again by
French Revolutionaries who used it as a quarry. Today there is no roof to protect the ab-
bey, but the French are carefully conserving what's left as an evocative ruin. Because it's
off the tourist track, you'll have this magical medieval sight to yourself—it's worth the
detour (€6, iPad videoguide-€5, helpful English handout, more detailed booklet for sale,
daily mid-April-mid-Sept 9:30-18:30, mid-Sept-mid-April 9:30-13:00 & 14:30-17:30, last
entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 02 35 37 24 02,
www.abbayedejumieges.fr
). Several
decent lunch options lie across the street from the abbey.
Although I prefer Rouen by day, sleeping here presents you with a mostly tourist-free city
(most hotels cater to business travelers). These hotels are perfectly central, within two
blocks of Notre-Dame Cathedral.
$$$ Hôtel Mercure***,
ideally situated a block north of the cathedral, is a concrete
businesshotelwithaprofessionalstaff,acomfortablelobbyandbar,and125roomsloaded
with modern comforts. Suites come with views of the cathedral, but are pricey and not
much bigger than a double. Look for big discounts online (standard Db-€120-160, “priv-
ilege” Db-€160-200,suite-€290,breakfast-€17,air-con,elevator,guestcomputer,freeWi-
Fi, parking garage-€13/day, 7 Rue Croix de Fer, tel. 02 35 52 69 52,
www.mercure.com
,
$$$ Hôtel le Cardinal**
is a sharp place with handsome rooms, most with point-
blank views of the cathedral and all with queen-size beds and spacious bathrooms (stand-
ard Db-€90-115; €140-160 for fourth-floor rooms—the hotel's largest, with balconies
and great cathedral views; non-smoking rooms available, breakfast-€9, elevator, Wi-
Fi, 1 Place de la Cathédrale, tel. 02 35 70 24 42,
www.cardinal-hotel.fr
,
hotelcardin-
