Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dining out in Chartres is a good deal—particularly if you've come from Paris. Troll the
places basking in cathedral views, and if it's warm, find a terrace table (several possibilit-
ies).Thenfinishyoureveningcathedral-side, sippingahotorcolddrinkattherecommen-
ded Le Serpente.
Le Bistrot de la Cathédrale
has the best view terrace—particularly enjoyable on a
balmy summer evening—and serves reliable, classic French fare. The owner has a thing
for wine, so the list is good. He also insists on fresh products (
menus
from €22,
plats
from
€14, closed Wed, 1 Cloître Notre-Dame, tel. 02 37 36 59 60).
Le Serpente
saddles up next door to the cathedral, with view tables on both sides of
Rue des Changes, a teapot collector's interior, and cool sling chairs ideal for appreciating
the Gothic grandeur. Food is basic bistro, and the prices are fair (daily, 2 Cloître Notre-
Dame, tel. 02 37 21 68 81).
Restaurant l'Emmanon
is one of several places that strings out along pedestrian-
friendly Rue des Changes with comfortable indoor and outdoor seating. They are best at
good-value €9-13 dinner-size tartines, salads, crêpes, and
plats du jour
; the house wine is
a fine value (closed Mon, 45 Rue des Changes, tel. 02 37 21 07 05).
Le Cloître Gourmand,
facingthecathedral'slefttransept,boastsasmallterraceand
anintimate,traditionalinterior.Theyoungchefloveshismeatandprideshimselfonusing
onlythefreshestingredients(€25
menu
,closedMon,21CloîtreNotre-Dame,tel.023721
49 13).
Le Pichet
isrunbyendearingMarie-SylvieandXavier.Thislocal-productsshopand
cozy bistro makes a fun lunch stop, with cheap homemade soups and a good selection of
plats
—split the pot-au-feu three ways or try the rabbit with plums (€15
plats
, Thu-Tue
11:00-17:00, closed Wed-Thu, 19 Rue du Cheval Blanc, tel. 02 37 21 08 35).
Claude Monet's gardens at Giverny are like his paintings—brightly colored patches that
are messy but balanced. Flowers were his brushstrokes, a bit untamed and slapdash, but
part of a carefully composed design. Monet spent his last (and most creative) years cultiv-
ating his garden and his art at Giverny (zhee-vayr-nee), the spiritual home of Impression-
ism. Visiting the Marmottan and/or the Orangerie museums in Paris before your visit here
heightens your appreciation of these gardens.