Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Eating in Chartres
Dining out in Chartres is a good deal—particularly if you've come from Paris. Troll the
places basking in cathedral views, and if it's warm, find a terrace table (several possibilit-
ies).Thenfinishyoureveningcathedral-side, sippingahotorcolddrinkattherecommen-
ded Le Serpente.
Le Bistrot de la Cathédrale has the best view terrace—particularly enjoyable on a
balmy summer evening—and serves reliable, classic French fare. The owner has a thing
for wine, so the list is good. He also insists on fresh products ( menus from €22, plats from
€14, closed Wed, 1 Cloître Notre-Dame, tel. 02 37 36 59 60).
Le Serpente saddles up next door to the cathedral, with view tables on both sides of
Rue des Changes, a teapot collector's interior, and cool sling chairs ideal for appreciating
the Gothic grandeur. Food is basic bistro, and the prices are fair (daily, 2 Cloître Notre-
Dame, tel. 02 37 21 68 81).
Restaurant l'Emmanon is one of several places that strings out along pedestrian-
friendly Rue des Changes with comfortable indoor and outdoor seating. They are best at
good-value €9-13 dinner-size tartines, salads, crêpes, and plats du jour ; the house wine is
a fine value (closed Mon, 45 Rue des Changes, tel. 02 37 21 07 05).
Le Cloître Gourmand, facingthecathedral'slefttransept,boastsasmallterraceand
anintimate,traditionalinterior.Theyoungchefloveshismeatandprideshimselfonusing
onlythefreshestingredients(€25 menu ,closedMon,21CloîtreNotre-Dame,tel.023721
49 13).
Le Pichet isrunbyendearingMarie-SylvieandXavier.Thislocal-productsshopand
cozy bistro makes a fun lunch stop, with cheap homemade soups and a good selection of
plats —split the pot-au-feu three ways or try the rabbit with plums (€15 plats , Thu-Tue
11:00-17:00, closed Wed-Thu, 19 Rue du Cheval Blanc, tel. 02 37 21 08 35).
Giverny
Claude Monet's gardens at Giverny are like his paintings—brightly colored patches that
are messy but balanced. Flowers were his brushstrokes, a bit untamed and slapdash, but
part of a carefully composed design. Monet spent his last (and most creative) years cultiv-
ating his garden and his art at Giverny (zhee-vayr-nee), the spiritual home of Impression-
ism. Visiting the Marmottan and/or the Orangerie museums in Paris before your visit here
heightens your appreciation of these gardens.
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