Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
fordable wines by the glass, €45 sit-down meals, daily, 52 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 46 06
28 15). For all the seafood, minus the setting, dive into their raw bar next door to sample
clams on the half shell or a handful of
bigorneau
—little black sea snails from Brittany.
$ Le Village
is a dive bar turned trendy,serving tiny cups ofespresso to garbage col-
lectors in the morning and to mustached hipsters in the afternoon. They have one warm
plat du jour
and several meat and cheese plate combinations (€11
plat du jour
, €10-15
main dishes, daily 7:00-24:00, 36 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 42 54 99 59).
$$ Autour de Midi et Minuit
isaclassic French bistro sitting ontopofajazz cellar.
Hotfoodservedupstairs;cooljazzserveddownstairs(€15lunches,€26-33dinners,closed
Mon, 11 Rue Lepic, Mo: Blanche or Abbesses, tel. 01 55 79 16 48).
$$ Jeanne B
isan
épicerie
-caféhybridwithgoodfoodavailablealldaylong.Asyou
climb up the hill, stop here for tasty picnic supplies or grab a table and rest your feet while
you gnaw on chicken fresh out of the rotisserie oven (€15 roasted chicken special, €19-27
multiple-course
menus
, daily, deli counter open 10:30-22:30, sit-down lunch 12:00-18:00,
dinner 18:00-22:30, 61 Rue Lepic, tel. 01 42 51 17 53).
$ Smooth in the City
provides a break from rich French fare. For €8.50 you get a
fresh fruit smoothie, a healthy salad or veggie-packed sandwich, and a homemade dessert.
Order it to go or sit at one of their three outdoor tables (daily 10:00-19:00, 11 Rue des Ab-
besses, tel. 01 83 56 56 55).
$ La Fourmi
sitsatthebottomofthehill.Openallday,theyofferthecheapestcoffee
and croissants in Montmartre, and simple, affordable lunches (€8-12). In the evening, the
place is taken over by hilltop hipsters who come for the inexpensive beer and generous
cheese plates (daily, 74 Rue des Martyrs, Mo: Anvers or Pigalle, tel. 01 42 64 70 35).
The following companies all offer dinner cruises (reservations required). Bateaux-
Mouches and Bateaux Parisiens have the best reputations and the highest prices. They of-
fer multicourse meals and music in aircraft-carrier-size dining rooms with glass tops and
goodviews.Forboth,properdressisrequired—nodenim,shorts,orsportshoes;Bateaux-
Mouches requires a jacket and tie for men. The main difference between these companies
is the music: Bateaux-Mouches offers violin and piano for elegant entertainment during
your romantic evening, whereas Bateaux Parisiens boasts a lively atmosphere with a sing-
er, band, and dance floor.
Bateaux-Mouches,
started in 1949, is hands-down the most famous. You can't miss
its sparkling port on the north side of the river at Pont de l'Alma. The boats usually board
19:30-20:15, depart at 20:30,andreturn at 22:45(€100-155/person,RER: Pontdel'Alma,
tel. 01 42 25 96 10,
www.bateaux-mouches.fr
).
