PARIS - France 2014 - page 282

likestoparty(particularlyaroundPlacedelaContrescarpe).Thegauntletbeginsontop,at
thrivingPlacedelaContrescarpe,andendsbelowwhereRueMouffetardstopsatSt.Méd-
ard Church. Both ends offer fun cafés where you can watch the action. The upper stretch
is pedestrian and touristy; the bottom stretch is purely Parisian. Anywhere between is no-
man's land for consistent quality. Still, strolling with so many fun-seekers is enjoyable,
whetheryoueatornot.Togethere,usetheCensierDaubentonorPlaceMongeMétrostop
(see map on here ) .
$$ Café Delmas, at the top of Rue Mouffetard on picturesque Place de la Contres-
carpe, is the place to see and be seen. Come here for an expensive before- or after-dinner
drink on the terrace or typical but pricey café cuisine (open daily).
$ Cave de Bourgogne, a local hangout, has good, reasonably priced café fare at the
bottom of Rue Mouffetard. The outside has picture-perfect tables on a raised terrace; the
interior is warm and lively (€13-16 plats , specials listed on chalkboards, daily, 144 Rue
Mouffetard).
In Montmartre
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Montmarte” map, here . )
Montmartrecanbehitormiss;thetopofthehillisextremelytouristy,withmindlessmobs
followingguidestocancanshows.Butifyouwalkafewblocksaway,you'llfindaquieter,
more authentic meal at one of the places I've listed below. For locations, see map on here .
Near Sacré-Cœur
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Montmartre” map, here . )
The steps in front of Sacré-Cœur are perfect for a picnic with a view, though the spot
comes with lots of company. For a quieter setting, consider the park directly behind the
church. Along the touristy main drag (near Place du Tertre and just off it), several fun pi-
anobarsserve mediocre crêpes andoverpriced bistro fare butoffergreat people-watching.
Theoptionsbecomelesstouristyandmoretastyasyouescapefromthetopofthehill.The
Anvers Métro stop works well if you're visiting Sacré-Cœur. The Abbesses Métro stop
will land you in the heart of the residential Montmartre neighborhood.
$$$ Moulin de la Galette lets you dine with Renoir under the historic windmill in
a comfortable setting with good prices. Find the old photos scattered about the place (€23
two-course and €29 three-course menus at lunch only; €15 starters and €28 plats for din-
ner, daily, 83 Rue Lepic, Mo: Abbesses, tel. [phone]).
$$ Restaurant Chez Plumeau, just off jam-packed Place du Tertre, is touristy yet
moderately priced, with formal service but great seating on a tiny, characteristic square