Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
$ Pasta Luna
isadelispecializinginporkyfarefromthesouthernmostFrenchisland
of Corsica. The proud owner lovingly and slowly makes sandwiches to order. Try the
sheep cheese with fig jam or the cured pork loin (€6 sandwiches, add €2 for a drink and
a cookie, served from 11:00 until the bread runs out—usually about 19:00, closed Sun, 15
Rue Mézières, tel. 01 45 44 32 02).
$ La Crêpe Rit du Clown
cooks up yummy crêpes (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, closed
Sun, 6 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 46 34 01 02).
$ Gérard Mulot's
boulangerie-pâtisserie
is a noteworthy neighborhood bakery.
PurchaseacheesyquicheandchocolatedesserttogoanddinealfrescointhenearbyLux-
embourg Gardens (Thu-Tue 7:00-20:00, closed Wed, 76 Rue de Seine, tel. 01 43 26 85
77).
$ Chez Georges
is a bohemian pub lined with black-and-white photos of the artsy
andrevolutionaryFrench'60s.Haveadrinkasyousitinacoollittlestreetsidetablenook,
orventuredownstairstofindahazy,drippy-candle,traditionallyFrenchworldintheEdith
Piaf-style dance cellar (cheap drinks from old-fashioned menu, Tue-Sat 14:00-2:00 in the
morning, closed Sun-Mon and in Aug, 11 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 43 26 79 15).
Near Boulevard St. Germain:
Afive-minutewalkfromSt.SulpiceChurch,thisven-
erable boulevard is home to some of Paris' most famous cafés and best pre- or post-dinner
strolling. Consider a light dinner with a table facing the action at Hemingway's
Les Deux
Magots
or at Sartre's
Le Café de Flore
(figure about €12 for an omelet and €18-28 for a
salad or
plat
). A block north (toward the river),
Rue de Buci
offers a lineup of bars, cafés,
and bistros targeted to a young clientele who are more interested in how they look than
how the food tastes. It's terrific theater for passersby from 18:00 until late.
$$ La Cigale Récamier,
near the Sèvres-Babylone shopping area, is a classy place
for a quiet meal at reasonable prices with appealing indoor and outdoor seating. It's about
10 minutes west of Place St. Sulpice, on a short pedestrian square a block off Rue de
Sèvres (€20
plats
, à la carte only, closed Sun, 4 Rue Récamier, Mo: Sèvres-Babylone, tel.
01 46 48 86 58).
Near the Odéon Theater
To reach these, use the Odéon or Cluny-La Sorbonne Métro stops. In this same neighbor-
hood, you'll find the historic Café le Procope, Paris' more-than-300-year-old café.
$ L'Avant Comptoir,
a stand-up-only hors d'oeuvres bar serving a delightful array
of French-Basque tapas for €3-6 on a sleek zinc counter, was created to give people a
sample of the cuisine from the
très
trendy Le Comptoir Restaurant next door, where the
reservation wait time is four months. The menu is fun and accessible, it has a good list