Travel Reference
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Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice-cream cone, because this is the
home of les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris). The original Berthillon shop,
at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-
Tue).Foralessfamousbutatleast assatisfying treat, thehomemade Italian gelato ablock
away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (no line, bigger portions, easier
to see what you want, and they offer little tastes—Berthillon doesn't need to, 47 Rue St.
Louis-en-l'Ile, tel. 01 44 07 48 08). Having some of each is not a bad thing.
In the Luxembourg Garden Area
(See “Restaurants near the Luxembourg Garden” map, here . )
SleepingintheLuxembourgneighborhoodputsyounearmanyappealingdiningandafter-
hours options. Because my hotels in this area cluster near St. Sulpice Church and the
Panthéon, I've organized restaurant listings the same way. Restaurants around St. Sulpice
tend to be boisterous; those near the Panthéon are calmer; it's a short walk from one area
to the other. Anyone sleeping in this area is close to the inexpensive eateries that line the
always-bustling Rue Mouffetard. You're also within a 15-minute walk of the grands cafés
of St. Germain and Montparnasse (with Paris' first café and famous artist haunts.
Near St. Sulpice Church
(See “Restaurants near the Luxembourg Garden” map, here . )
The eateries in this section are served by the St. Sulpice, Mabillon, and St. Germain-
des-Prés Métro stops. The streets between St. Sulpice Church and Boulevard St. Germain
abound with restaurants, crêperies , wine bars, and jazz haunts (for this area, use Mo: St.
Sulpice). Find Rue des Canettes and Rue Guisarde, and window-shop the many French
and Italian eateries—most with similar prices, but each with a slightly different feel.
$$ Lou Pescadou-Chez Julien offers a comfortable atmosphere and above-average
bistro fare in a zone where every restaurant looks the same (€9 starters, €18 plats , daily,
some outdoor seating, 16 Rue Mabillon, tel. 01 43 54 56 08).
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