PARIS - France 2014 - page 273

north of Rue de Rivoli (the horseshoe-shaped Au Petit Fer à Cheval bar-restaurant and
the atmospheric La Belle Hortense bookstore/wine bar are the focal points of the action).
Nearby, Rue des Rosiers bustles with youthful energy, but there are no cafés to observe
from. La Perla dishes up inexpensive Tex-Mex and is stuffed with Parisian yuppies in
search of the perfect margarita (26 Rue François Miron, tel. [phone]).
$ Le Pick-Clops bar-restaurant is a happy peanuts-and-lots-of-cocktails diner with
bright neon, loud colors, and a garish local crowd. It's perfect for immersing yourself in
today's Marais world—a little boisterous, a little edgy, a little gay, fun-loving, easygo-
ing...and sans tourists. Sit inside on old-fashioned diner stools, or streetside to watch the
constant Marais parade. The name means “Steal the Cigarettes”—but you'll pay €11 for
your big salad (daily 7:00-24:00, 16 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. [phone]).
More Options: The best scene for hard-core clubbers is the dizzying array of wacky
eateries, bars, and dance halls on Rue de Lappe. Just east of the stately Place de la
Bastille, it's one of the wildest nightspots in Paris and not for everyone.
The most enjoyable peaceful evening may be simply mentally donning your floppy
“three musketeers” hat and slowly strolling Place des Vosges, window-shopping the art
galleries.
On Ile St. Louis
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here . )
This romantic and peaceful neighborhood is littered with promising and surprisingly reas-
onable possibilities; it merits a trip for dinner even if your hotel is elsewhere. Cruise the
island'smainstreetforavarietyofoptions,fromcozy crêperies toItalianeateriestoAlsa-
tian brasseries and romantic bistros. After dinner, sample Paris' best ice cream and stroll
across to Ile de la Cité to see a floodlit Notre-Dame. These recommended spots line the
island's main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile (see map on here ; to get here use the Pont Marie
Métro stop).
$$$ Le Tastevin is an intimate mother-and-son-run restaurant serving top-notch tra-
ditional French cuisine with white-tablecloth, candlelit, gourmet elegance under heavy
woodenbeams.Theromanticsetting(andtheelegantlyromanticParisiancouplesenjoying
the place) naturally makes you whisper. The menus (€32-44 two courses, €40-54 three
courses) offer a handful of classic choices that change with the season (daily, reserve for
late-evening dining, fine wine list, 46 Rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile, tel. [phone], owner
Madame Puisieux and her gentle son speak just enough English).
$$$ Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois (“Our Ancestors the Gauls”), famous for its rowdy,
medieval-cellar atmosphere, is made for hungry warriors and wenches who like to swill
hearty wine. They serve up rustic all-you-can-eat fare with straw baskets of raw veggies