PARIS - France 2014 - page 227

In the Marais Neighborhood
Thoseinterestedinamorecentral,diverse,andlivelyurbanlocaleshouldmaketheMarais
their Parisian home. Once a forgotten Parisian backwater, the Marais—which runs from
the Pompidou Center east to the Bastille (a 15-minute walk)—is now one of Paris' most
popular residential, tourist, and shopping areas. This is jumbled, medieval Paris at its
finest, where classy stone mansions sit alongside trendy bars, antique shops, and fashion-
conscious boutiques. The streets are a fascinating parade of artists, students, tourists, im-
migrants, and baguette-munching babies in strollers. The Marais is also known as a hub of
the Parisian gay and lesbian scene. This area is sans doubt livelier (and louder) than the
Rue Cler area.
In the Marais you have these major sights close at hand: the Carnavalet Museum,
Victor Hugo's House, the Jewish Art and History Museum, the Pompidou Center, and the
PicassoMuseum.You'realsoamanageablewalkfromParis'twoislands(IleSt.Louisand
Ile de la Cité), home to Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. The Opéra Bastille, Promenade
Plantée park, Place des Vosges (Paris' oldest square), Jewish Quarter (Rue des Rosiers),
the Latin Quarter, and nightlife-packed Rue de Lappe are also walkable. Strolling home
(day or night) from Notre-Dame along Ile St. Louis is marvelous.
Most of my recommended hotels are located a few blocks north of the Marais' main
east-west drag, Rue St. Antoine/Rue de Rivoli.
Tourist Information: The nearest TI is at the Pyramides Métro station (daily May-
Oct 9:00-19:00, Nov-April 10:00-19:00).
Services: Mostbanksandotherservices areonthemainstreet, RuedeRivoli, which
becomes Rue St. Antoine as it heads east. Marais post offices are on Rue Castex and at
the corner of Rue Pavée and Rue des Francs Bourgeois. There's a busy SNCF Boutique
where you can take care of all train needs on Rue St. Antoine at Rue de Turenne (Mon-Fri
8:00-20:30, Sat 10:00-20:30, closed Sun). A quieter SNCF Boutique is nearer Gare de Ly-
on at 5 Rue de Lyon (Mon-Sat 8:30-18:00, closed Sun).
Markets: The Marais has three good farmers' markets close by: the sprawling
Marché de la Bastille, along Boulevard Richard Lenoir, on the north side of Place de la
Bastille (Thu and Sun until 14:30); the Marché d'Aligre (Tue-Sat 9:00-14, closed Mon,
from Mo: Ledru-Rollin, walk east with your back to the Bastille column, veer right at the
secondtrafficlightontoRueCrozatier);andParis'oldestcoveredmarket,the Marché des
Enfants Rouges, a 10-minute walk north of Rue de Rivoli. A small grocery is open until
23:00 on Rue St. Antoine (near intersection with Rue Castex). To shop at a Parisian Sears,
find the BHV department store next to Hôtel de Ville.
Internet Access: Try Paris CY (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, 8 Rue de Jouy,
Mo: St. Paul, tel. [phone]).