Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
bottom stretch is purely Parisian (Mo: Censier Daubenton). Shops are open daily except
Sunday afternoons, Mondays, and lunchtime throughout the week (13:00-15:00).
Paris is brilliant after dark. Save energy from your day's sightseeing and experience the
CityofLightlit.Whetherit'saconcertatSainte-Chapelle, aboatrideontheSeine,awalk
in Montmartre, a hike up the Arc de Triomphe, or a late-night café, you'll see Paris at its
best.NightwalksinParisarewonderful.Anyoftheself-guidedwalkingtoursinthisbook
are terrific after dark.
Adjust your expectations to the changing times. Paris will always be the City of
Light, but it shines a little dimmer these days. In an effort to go green and reduce costs,
Paris has toned down the lighting on several monuments, including the Arc de Triomphe
and the Louvre's glass pyramid.
Jazz and Blues Clubs
With a lively mix of American, French, and international musicians, Paris has been an in-
ternationally acclaimed jazz capital since World War II. You'll pay €12-25 to enter a jazz
club (may include one drink; if not, expect to pay €5-10 per drink; beer is cheapest). See
Pariscope
magazine under “Musique” for listings, or, even better, the
Paris Voice
web-
site (
www.parisvoice.com
). You can also check each club's website (all have English ver-
sions), or drop by the clubs to check out the calendars posted on their front doors. Music
starts after 21:00 in most clubs. Some offer dinner concerts from about 20:30 on. Here are
several good bets:
Caveau de la Huchette,
a fun, characteristic old jazz/dance club, fills an ancient
Latin Quarter cellar with live jazz and frenzied dancing every night (admission about
€12 on weekdays, €14 on weekends, €6-8 drinks, daily 21:30-2:30 in the morning or
later, 5 Rue de la Huchette, Mo: St. Michel, recorded info tel. 01 43 26 65 05,
Autour de Midi et Minuit
is an Old World bistro at the foot of Montmartre, sitting
above a
cave à jazz
. Eat upstairs if you like (see
here
for details), then make your way
down to the basement to find bubbling jam sessions on Tuesday and Wednesday and
concerts on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday (no cover, €5 minimum drink order Tue-
Wed; €16 cover Thu-Sat includes one drink; jam sessions at 21:30, concerts usually at
22:00; no music Sun-Mon; 11 Rue Lepic, Mo: Blanche or Abbesses, tel. 01 55 79 16 48,
