PARIS - France 2014 - page 208

stop, head east along Boulevard de Clichy to the first street, where you turn right on Rue
des Martyrs.
At#62,hardworkingAussiessteamupAmerican-style lattesat Kooka Boora .Make
a short detour down Rue Victor Massé to #3 and you'll find the hot bistro Le Pantruche ,
which is breathing new life into traditional dishes. Back on Rue des Martyrs, the tradi-
tional charcuterie at #58 still sells various meats, but it has morphed with the times into
an appealing “traiteur” with more variety, food to eat in as well as to go, and prepared
dishes sold by weight.
Le Cul de Poule (“Chicken Butt”), at#53,servescreative Frenchfoodtotrendyloc-
als. At #50, a favorite cheese monger has been serving the neighborhood ever since it
actually had goats and cows grazing out back. At #46, the English-owned Rose Bakery
serves a young, affluent, and health-conscious crowd with top-quality organic and veget-
arian breakfasts and lunches. At #42 sits Terra Corsa , a café/gourmet food shop selling
fine foods from Corsica and tasty lunch plates served with wine, beer, or Corsican cola.
Acrossthe street, the baker Delmontel at #39proudlydisplays his“best baguette inParis”
award from 2007.
If you turn right and walk a few steps up Rue Clauzel, at #3 you'll see the final
site of the first African American restaurant in Paris—established by Leroy Haynes in
this neighborhood in 1949. For 60 years it was a black-American-in-Paris hangout, but it
closed in 2009.
Continuing your stroll on Rue des Martyrs, take a look at the traditional butcher
at #21. The ceiling hooks—where butchers once hung sides of beef—now display a red
medallion that certifies the slaughtered cow's quality. The pâtisserie at #22 is worth pop-
ping in to see the typically French works of art. Bakers often make special treats in sync
with the season: Easter, Christmas, First Communion, and so on.
Nearby,the tobacco shop/café at#20iscopingwellwiththesmokingbanbyputting
out heaters (in cool weather) and as many tables as will fit on the sidewalk. At #10, Eat
Sushi delivers its food like a pizzeria—notice the motorbikes parked outside.
Rue des Martyrs ends at the neighborhood church—the Neoclassical Notre-Dame-
de-Lorette (circa 1836). To the left of the church sits the inviting Comptoir des Abbayes
at Rue Flechier 4. This fragrant two-story shop sells gift-worthy products—honey wine,
herbal medicine, and traditional pottery—made by crafty French monks and nuns. With
that, this walk comes to a heavenly end.
Flea Markets
Paris' sprawling flea markets ( marché aux puces; mar-shay oh-poos; puce is French for
“flea”) are oversized garage sales. They started in the Middle Ages, when middlemen sold