Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
therestofhislife—sunny,light-hearted, childlike,experimenting innewmedia,andusing
motifs of the sea. He was fertile to the end, still painting with bright thick colors at age 91.
OncethelargestinWesternEurope,Paris'JewishQuarterismuchsmallertodaybutisstill
colorful. This street—the heart of the Jewish Quarter—has recently become the epicen-
ter of Marais hipness and fashion. While Rue des Rosiers is still lined with Jewish shops
andkoshereateries,thedistrict'straditionalpopulationisbeingsqueezedoutbythetrendy
boutiques. The intersection of Rue des Rosiers and Rue des Ecouffes marks the heart of
the small neighborhood that Jews call the Pletzl (“little square”). Lively Rue des Ecouffes,
named for a bird of prey, is a derogatory nod to the moneychangers' shops that once lined
this lane.
Eating:
If you're visiting at lunchtime, you'll be tempted by kosher pizza and plenty
of cheap fast-food joints selling falafel “to go”
(emporter)
.
L'As du Falafel,
with its bust-
ling New York deli atmosphere, is terrific (at #34, sit-down or to go, closed Sat). The
Sacha Finkelsztajn
Yiddish bakery at #27 is also good (Polish and Russian cuisine, pop
inforatemptingtreat,sitforthesamepriceastake-away,closedTue).Nearby,therecom-
mended
Chez Marianne
cooks up inexpensive Jewish meals and serves excellent falafel
to go (at corner of Rue des Rosiers and Rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais).
▲
Jewish Art and History Museum (Musée d'Art et Histoire du Judaïsme)
This fine museum, located in a beautifully restored Marais mansion, reconstructs the Jew-
ishcultureofcommunitythroughitsartisticheritage.IttellsthestoryofJudaisminFrance
and throughout Europe, from the Roman destruction of Jerusalem to the theft of fam-
ous artworks during World War II. Displays illustrate the cultural unity maintained by
this continually dispersed population. You'll learn about the history of Jewish traditions,
from bar mitzvahs to menorahs, and see the exquisite costumes and objects central to
daily life. The museum also displays paintings by famous Jewish artists, including Marc
Chagall, Amedeo Modigliani, and Chaim Soutine. English explanations posted in many
rooms provide sufficient explanation for most; the included audioguide provides greater
detail.
Cost and Hours:
€7, includes audioguide, covered by Museum Pass, Sun-Fri
11:00-18:00, closed Sat, last entry 45 minutes before closing, 71 Rue du Temple; Mo:
Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville a few blocks farther away, RER: Châtelet-Les Halles; tel. 01
53 01 86 60,
www.mahj.org
.
