Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
With the Revolution, the aristocratic splendor of this quarter passed, and the Marais
became a dumpy bohemian quarter so sordid it was nearly slated for destruction. In the
mid-1800s,thewreckingballwaspoisedovertheMarais:NapoleonIIIhadorderedBaron
Georges-EugèneHaussmanntomodernizeParisbyblastingoutnarrowstreetstoconstruct
broad boulevards (wide enough for the big guns of the army, too wide for revolution-
ary barricades). By 1910, the renovation was almost complete, and a big boulevard was
planned to slice right through the Marais. But then the march of “progress” was halted by
one tiny little event—World War I.
Naturally, when in Paris you want to see the big sights—but to experience the city,
you also need to visit a vital neighborhood. The Marais fits the bill—a trendy place of
fashion boutiques, quiet cafés, art galleries, narrow streets, leafy squares, Jewish baker-
ies, aristocratic châteaux, nightlife, and real Parisians. It's the perfect setting to appreciate
the zest and flair of this great city. When strolling the Marais, stick to the west-east axis
formed by Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, Rue des Rosiers (heart of Paris' Jewish com-
munity),andRueSt.Antoine.OnSundayafternoons,thistrendyareapulseswithshoppers
and café crowds.
The following sights are listed roughly in geographical order from east to west, starting at
the heart of the Marais.
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Place des Vosges
Henry IV built this centerpiece of the Marais in 1605 and called it “Place Royal.” As he'd
hoped, it turned the Marais into Paris' most exclusive neighborhood. Walk to the center,
where Louis XIII, on horseback, gestures, “Look at this wonderful square my dad built.”
He's surrounded by locals enjoying their community park. You'll see children frolicking
in the sandbox, lovers warming benches, and pigeons guarding their fountains while trees
shade this escape from the glare of the big city (you can refill your water bottle in the cen-
ter of the square).
