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The flower and plant market on Place Louis Lépine is a pleasant detour. On Sundays
thissquareflutterswithabusybirdmarket.AndacrossthewayisthePréfecturedePolice,
where Inspector Clouseau of Pink Panther fame used to work, and where the local resist-
ancefighterstookthefirstbuildingfromtheNazisinAugustof1944,leadingtotheAllied
liberation of Paris a week later.
•Pauseheretoadmiretheview.Sainte-Chapelleisapearlinanuglyarchitecturaloyster.
Double back to the Palais de Justice, turn right onto Boulevard du Palais, and enter the
Conciergerie.It'sfreewiththeMuseumPass;passholderscansidestepthebottleneckcre-
ated by the ticket-buying line.
Conciergerie
Though pretty barren inside, this former prison echoes with history. Positioned next to the
courthouse, the Conciergerie was the gloomy prison famous as the last stop for 2,780 vic-
tims of the guillotine, including France's last ancien régime queen, Marie-Antoinette. Be-
fore then, kings had used the building to torture and execute failed assassins. (One of its
towers along the river was called “The Babbler,” named for the pain-induced sounds that
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