REIMS and VERDUN - France 2014 - page 1499

Eating in Reims
This is a “meaty” city: Most menus will offer foie gras , raw tartares , lots of beef, and
some dishes you may choose to avoid, such as rognons , ris de veau , tête de veau , pieds
de porc , and boudin blanc (kidneys, sweetbreads, calf's head, pig's feet, and meat saus-
age, respectively). Dining in Reims is as much about the area you eat in as the restaurant
you choose. I've described areas to troll for dinner as well as a few specific restaurants.
If you're just looking for cheap picnic fixings, head to the grocery store at Monoprix (see
“Helpful Hints,” here ) .
On Place Drouet d'Erlon
(See “Reims” map, here . )
Thisbustlinglineofcafésandrestaurantsservesmostlycheapandmediocremealsbuthas
the city's best people-watching and café action. You'll find exceptions to the forgettable
offeringsattherecommendedGrandHôtelContinental's Au Conti ,withquiet,inside-only
dining, classy decor, and top service thanks to maître d' Frédéric (good €25 three-course
menus include a drink or half-bottle of wine, closed Sun, 93 Place Drouet d'Erlon, tel.
03 26 40 39 35), and across the square at Brasserie Flo, with an established clientele, a
woody brasserie interior, and fine terrace tables outside (€26 two-course menu, €32 for
three, open daily, 96 Place Drouet d'Erlon, tel. [phone]).
On Place du Forum
Thisquieterbutpopularspotservesayoungprofessionalcrowdatseveralbistrosthatspill
onto the square. Come here for a more wine-focused, intimate meal. Among several ap-
pealing options, consider Bistrot du Forum, an informal place with small wooden tables,
acoolzincbar,andgoodterraceseating.Theyserveheartysalads,bruschetta,andburgers,
as well as traditional meat and fish dishes (€13-22 plats ). You'll also find a good selection
of wines (and Champagne, bien sûr ) by the glass (daily, 6 Place Forum, tel. [phone]
58). Le Wine Bar and Le Bouchon du Forum sitsidebysideonthesquareat#14-16and
offer a similar setting and menu (both closed Sun).
On the Cathedral Square
(See “Reims” map, here . )
The attraction here is to eat outdoors under the towering west facade of the cathedral,
where a few cafés face the Gothic church. This is sensational after dark, when the flood-
lighting and sound-and-light showmake the view a performance. Au Bureau is worth it if