REIMS and VERDUN - France 2014 - page 1497

The abbey church is worth a wander (great WCs) for its wood-accented interior
alone.Accordingtothestory,inabout1700,aftermuchfiddlingwithdoublefermentation,
it was here that Dom Pérignon stumbled onto the bubbly treat. On that happy day, he ran
throughtheabbey,shouting,“Brothers, comequickly...I'mdrinkingstars!”Findhistomb-
stone in front of the altar.
To taste your own stars, find Champagne G. Tribaut (300 yards from the café),
and meet animated Valerie, who loves her job and the family's product (€15-24 bottles,
she's supposed to charge a few euros per tasting but can't bring herself to do it). Ask her
about Ratafia, a local fortified wine served as an apéritif. You can linger over your cou-
pette of bubbly in the garden as you survey the sea of vineyards. If you ask nicely, they'll
let you picnic there—but you'll have to plan ahead, as there's only a bakery in town (daily
9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00; www.champagne.g.tribaut.com ) .
Another option is Au 36, a slick and interesting wine shop/tasting room that rep-
resents many producers. The passionate staff will help you understand the differences
among grape varieties (€10-15 tastings with 3 contrasting Champagnes, good prices for
purchase,Tue-Sun10:30-18:00,closedMon,ablockfromCaféHautvillersat36RueDom
Pérignon, tel. [phone]).
For a simply spectacular picnic spot (with tables and benches, but no WCs) and
sweeping views overvineyardsandtheMarneRiver,drivetotheabbeychurchandfollow
Rue de l'Eglise past it for 3 minutes. Get out of the car and wander among the vineyards.
That picture-perfect village down below is Cumières.
• Exit the town or picnic site downhill, toward the river to Cumières, then turn left on
D-1 and follow signs home to Reims (about 20 minutes back on the speedy D-951). You
could also pass through Cumières and drive two miles into Epernay, home to Moët et
Chandon (see page 1142). True connoisseurs can continue along the Route Touristique de
Champagne southofEpernay toward Vertus, alongthe Chardonnay-grape-filled Côte des
Blancs.
Sleeping in Reims
$$ Grand Hôtel Continental*** is a fine, creaky old hotel on lively Place d'Erlon with
rooms in every size, shape, and price. Those in the main building come with traditional
decor, high ceilings, and big, Old World bathrooms; those in the new wing are plush and
très modern. Helpful Maxence (Max-ahns) runs the place with panache (basic Db-€80,
standard Db-€100-120, tradition Db-€150-180, good family options; ask for Rick Steves
discount—can be 10-20 percent, increases with room price; request a nonsmoking room,
air-con, elevator, laundry service, Wi-Fi, parking-€9/day, 5-minute walk from central train