REIMS and VERDUN - France 2014 - page 1490

catch Citadine bus #2 (around the corner from where you got off on Rue du Barbâtre, bus
stop Salines, direction: Hôtel de Ville), and get off at Royale.
From Reims-Centre Station to Tattinger and Martel, catch bus #4 across the park-
way from the station TI (6/hour Mon-Sat, 2/hour Sun, direction: Hôpital Debré). Get off
at the St. Timothée stop, and ask the driver to point you in the right direction (5-minute
walk, return stop is across the street). To get near Veuve Clicquot, take bus #6 from the
train station (to the Droits de l'Homme stop, 4/hour, direction: ZI Farman, return stop is
on opposite side of the big roundabout on Boulevard Dieu Lumière, bus stop Cimitière du
Sud, direction: Gare Centre).
If you're coming from the Champagne-Ardenne TGV train station, take the tram to
the Opéra stop and walk to the cathedral, then find Citadine bus #1 (described earlier).
Taittinger
Oneofthebiggest, slickest, andmostrenownedofReims' caves, Taittinger (tay-tan-zhay)
runsmorningandafternoontoursinEnglishthroughtheirvastandhistoriccellars(callfor
times,besttoshowupearly,noreservationnecessary,about25peoplepertour).Aftersee-
ing their 10-minute promo-movie (hooray for Taittinger!), descend with your guide for 60
chilly minutes in a chalky underworld of caves, the deepest of which were dug by ancient
Romans. You'll tour part of the three miles of caves, pass some of the three million bottles
stored here, and learn all you need to know about the Champagne-making process from
your well-informed guide. Popping corks signal the tour's done and the tasting's begun.
Cost and Hours: €16 includes one-hour tour and a single glass tasting, tours daily
mid-March-mid-Nov 9:30-13:00 & 14:00-17:30, closed weekends off-season, 9 Place St.
Niçaise, tel. [phone], www.taittinger.com , [e-mail] .
Martel
This small operation with less extensive caves offers a homey contrast to Taittinger's big-
business style, and it's a great deal. Call to set up a visit and expect a small group that
might be yours alone. Friendly Emmanuel runs the place with a relaxed manner. Only 20
percentoftheirproductisexported,soyouwon'tfindmuchoftheirChampagneintheUS.
Their visit includes an informative 10-minute film, a tour of their small cellars (which are
peppered with rusted old wine-making tools) and a tasting of three different Champagnes
in a casual living-room atmosphere.
Cost and Hours: €11 includes one-hour tour and tasting, tours depart daily
10:00-11:50 & 14:00-17:45, reservations not required but advised, 17 Rue des Créneaux,
tel. [phone], www.champagnemartel.com , [e-mail] .