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The hallway stretching in front of you is lined with 200,000 lighted crystals, one
for each French citizen who died. Flickering at the far end is the eternal flame of hope.
The tomb of the unknown deportee lies at your feet. Above, the inscription reads, “Dedic-
ated to the living memory of the 200,000 French deportees shrouded by the night and the
fog, exterminated in the Nazi concentration camps.” The side rooms are filled with tri-
angles—reminiscentoftheidentificationpatchesinmateswereforcedtowear—eachbear-
ing the name of a concentration camp. Above the exit as you leave is the message you'll
find at many other Holocaust sites: “Forgive, but never forget.”
Cost and Hours: Free, April-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00, Oct-March Tue-Sun
10:00-17:00, closed Mon year-round, may randomly close at other times; at the east tip of
the island named Ile de la Cité, behind Notre-Dame and near Ile St. Louis (Mo: Cité); mo-
bile 06 14 67 54 98.
• Back on street level, look across the river (north) to the island called...
Ile St. Louis
If Ile de la Cité is a tugboat laden with the history of Paris, it's towing this classy little res-
identialdinghy,ladenonlywithhigh-rentapartments,boutiques,characteristicrestaurants,
and famous ice cream shops.
Ile St. Louis wasn't developed until much later than Ile de la Cité (17th century).
What was a swampy mess is now harmonious Parisian architecture and one of Paris' most
exclusive neighborhoods. If you won't have time to return here for an evening stroll (see
here ) , consider taking a brief detour across the pedestrian bridge, Pont St. Louis. It con-
nects the two islands, leading right to Rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile. This spine of the island is
lined with appealing shops and reasonably priced restaurants. A short stroll takes you to
the famous Berthillon ice cream parlor at #31. Gelato-lovers head instead to Amorino
Gelati at 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile. This walk is about as peaceful and romantic as Paris
gets. When you're finished exploring, loop back to the pedestrian bridge along the park-
like quays (walk north to the river and turn left).
Affording Paris' Sights
Paris is an expensive city for tourists, with lots of pricey sights,
but—fortunately—lots of freebies, too. Smart, budget-minded travelers begin by
buying and getting the most out of a Paris Museum Pass (see here ) , then consider-
ing these frugal sightseeing options.
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