ALSACE - France 2014 - page 1424

marshy plains yet below the frosts that can hit the higher ground. Everyone scrambles for
the finest land. The region's 50 Grand Cru vineyards (the highest quality) get the privilege
of putting up their names on big signs along the hillsides.
Peppering the landscape are Route du Vin villages, full of quaint half-timbered ar-
chitecture corralled within medieval walls (for a refresher course, see here ) . The towns
withevocativecastleruinsareoftenstrategicallylocatedattheendofvalleys.Theirnames
can reveal their histories—towns ending with “heim” and “wihr” were born as farmsteads
(Eguisheim was Egui's farm, Riquewihr was Rick's farm).
Colmar and Eguisheim are well-located for exploring the 30,000 acres of vineyards
blanketing the hills from Marlenheim to Thann. Drivers need a detailed map of the Route
du Vin, which they can pick up at any area TI.
Asyoutourthe Route duVin,you'llsee storks'nests onchurch spires andcity halls,
thanks to a campaign to reintroduce the birds to this area. (Those nests can weigh over
1,000 pounds, posing a danger if they fall and forcing villagers to shore them up.) Look
also for crucifixion monuments scattered about the vineyards—intended to get a little di-
vine intervention for a good harvest.
Planning Your Time
If you have only a day, focus on towns within easy striking range of Colmar. World War
II hit many Route du Vin villages hard. While some of the towns are amazingly preserved
fromcenturiespast,severalwereentirelyrebuiltafterthewar.Italldependedonwherethe
war went in 1944. Villages that emerged from World War II unscathed include Eguisheim,
Kaysersberg, Hunawihr, Turckheim, Ribeauvillé, and the très popular Riquewihr.
After seeing two or three towns, they all look the same—don't overdose. If driving,
distances are short and you can lace together what you like. If taking a minibus tour, you
can see a representative sampling in half a day or cover the highlights of the entire region
in a full day. Those without wheels need to be more select and deal with the meager-but-
workable bus schedules.
Towns are most alive during their weekly morning (until noon) farmers markets
(Mon—Kaysersberg; Tue—Munster; Fri—Turckheim; Sat—Ribeauvillé and Colmar).
Riquewihr and Eguisheim have no market days.
Getting Around the Route du Vin
By Car: Drivers need a good regional map. To reach the Route du Vin north of Colmar,
leaveColmarfollowingsignstoIngersheim.FromhereroadsfanoutnortheasttoKaysers-
berg; north through Sigolsheim to Riquewihr, Hunawihr, Ribeauvillé, and Château du
Haut-Kœnigsbourg; or south to Eguisheim. Look for Route du Vin signs. For the quickest