Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Thesidedoor(facingtheoldguard'shouse)stillhastheroundRomanesquetympan-
um, starring St. Martin, from the earlier church. Notice how it fits into the pointed Gothic
arch. This was the lepers' door—marked by the four totem-like rows of grotesque faces
and bodies representing lepers. They could “go to church” but had to stay outside, away
from the other people.
Walk left, under expressive gargoyles, to the west portal. Facing the front of the
church, notice that the relief over the main door depicts not your typical Last Judgment
scene, but the Three Kings who visited Baby Jesus. The Magi, whose remains are nearby
in the Rhine city of Köln, Germany, are popular in this region. The interior is dark, but
it holds a few finely carved and beautifully painted altarpieces. The church's beautiful
Vosges-stone exterior radiates color in the late afternoon.
• Walk past the church, go left around Café Jupiler, and wander up the pedestrian-only
Rue des Serruriers (“Locksmiths Street”) to the...
Dominican Church:
Compare the Church of St. Martin's ornate exterior with this
simple Dominican structure. While both churches were built at the same time, they each
make different statements. The “High Church” of the 13th century was fancy and corrupt.
The Dominican order was all about austerity. It was a time of crisis in the Roman Cath-
olic Church. Monastic orders (as well as heretical movements like the Cathars in southern
France) preached a simpler faith and way of life. In the style of St. Dominic and St. Fran-
cis, they tried to get Rome back on a Christ-like track. This church houses the exquisite
Virgin in the Rose Bush
by Martin Schongauer (described later) and, in coming years, it
may host the popular
Isenheim Altarpiece
while the Unterlinden Museum is undergoing a
planned restoration.
• Continuing past the Dominican Church, Rue des Serruriers becomes Rue des
Boulangers—“Bakers Street.” Stop at #16.
Skyscrapers and Biscuits:
Thetoweringsix-storyhouseat#16,datingfromthe16th
century, was one of Colmar's tallest buildings from that age. Notice how it contrasts with
the string of buildings to the right, which are lower, French-style structures—likely built
after a fire cleared out older, higher buildings.
As this is Bakers Street, check out the one right here at #16. Maison Alsacienne de
Biscuiterie sells traditional, home-baked
biscuits
(cookies) including Christmas delights
year-round. The various
macarons
and
biscuits
cost about €1 each.
Turn right on Rue des Têtes (notice the beautiful swan sign over the
pharmacie
at the
corner). Walk a block to the fancy old house festooned with heads (on the right) and stand
in front of the Esprit boutique for the best view.
Maison des Têtes (“House of Heads”):
Colmar's other famous merchant's house,
built in 1609 by a big-shot winemaker (see the grapes hanging from the wrought-iron sign
