Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Of the 1.8 million people living in Alsace, about 270,000 live in Strasbourg (its
biggest city) and 70,000 live in Colmar (its best city).
Colmar is one of Europe's most enchanting cities—with a small-town warmth and
world-class art. Strasbourg is a big-city version of Colmar, worth a stop for its remarkable
cathedral and to feel its high-powered and trendy bustle. The small villages that dot the
wine road between them are like petite Colmars, and provide a delightful and charming
escape from the two cities.
Planning Your Time
The ideal plan: Make Colmar your home base and spend three nights. Take one day to see
the town and one day to explore the Route du Vin. To efficiently see the villages and vine-
yards of the Route du Vin, you'll need a car—or take one of the recommended minibus
tours from Colmar. If you have a car and like small towns, you might prefer basing your-
selfinEguisheimorKaysersberg.Ifyouhaveonlyoneday,spendyourmorninginColmar
and your afternoon along the Route du Vin. Urban Strasbourg, with its soaring cathedral
and vigorous center, is a headache for drivers but a quick 35-minute train ride from Col-
mar—do it bytrain as a day trip from Colmar oras a stopover onyourway in orout ofthe
region.
ThehumblingWWIbattlefieldsofVerdunandthebubblyvigorofReimsinnorthern
France (both described in the next chapter) are closer to Paris than to Alsace, and follow
logically only if your next destination is Paris. The high-speed TGV-Est train links Paris
withReims,Verdun,Strasbourg,Colmar,anddestinationsfarthereast,bringingtheAlsace
within2.5hoursofParisandgivingtraintravelerseasyaccesstoReimsorVerdunenroute
between Paris and Alsace.
Getting Around Alsace
Frequent trains make the trip between Colmar and Strasbourg a snap (2/hour, 35 minutes).
Distances are very short and driving is easy—though a good map helps. Connecting
Colmar with neighboring villages is doable via the region's sparse bus service. Various
minivan excursions are ideal for those without cars. And hopping a taxi between towns is
an option—if you've got the money. Once in the Route du Vin villages, you can hike or
rent bikes to explore (for details on all of these options, see “Route du Vin,” later).
Early Crockpots
