Lyon - France 2014 - page 1383

(€29 menus , closed Mon, near Place des Terreaux at 6 Rue Hippolyte, tel. [phone],
www.archangecafe.com ).
Brasserie le Sud is one of four places in Lyon where you can sample legendary chef
PaulBocuse'scuisineataffordableprices.Hisbrasseriesfeatureinternationalcuisinefrom
different corners of the world (each named for the corner it represents—north, south, east,
andwest).LeSudisthemostaccessible,withaMediterraneanfeelinsideandout,butless
easygoing service than you'll find at my other recommended restaurants (€22-37 menus,
reasonably priced plats, daily, 11 Place Antonin-Poncet, a few blocks off Place Bellecour,
tel. [phone]).
Lyon Connections
After Paris, Lyon is France's most important rail hub. Train travelers find this gateway to
the Alps, Provence, the Riviera, and Burgundy an easy stopover. Two main train stations
serve Lyon: Part-Dieu and Perrache. Most trains officially depart from Part-Dieu, though
many also stop at Perrache, and trains run between the stations every 10 minutes. Double-
check which station your train departs from.
From Lyon by Train to: Paris (at least hourly, 2 hours), Annecy (10/day, 2 hours,
most change in Aix-les-Bains, some by bus), Chamonix (6/day, 4 hours), Strasbourg (5/
day,4hours), Dijon (hourly,2hours), Beaune (atleasthourly,1.75hours,somechangein
Mâcon), Avignon (22/day; 12 to TGV Station in 1.5 hours, 10 to main station in 2 hours),
Arles (14/day, 2.5-3.5 hours, most change in Avignon, Marseille, or Nîmes), Nice (6/day,
5 hours), Carcassonne (6/day, 4 hours), Venice (3/day, 9.5-10.5 hours, 2-3 changes, night
train), Rome (4/day, 10-12 hours, at least one change in Milan, night train), Florence (7/
day, 8-15 hours), Geneva (8/day, 2 hours), Barcelona (2 day trains, 7 hours, change in
Perpignan; 2 night trains with transfers).
Route Tips for Drivers: En route to Provence, consider a half-day detour through
the spectacular Ardèche Gorges: Exit the A-6 autoroute at Privas and follow the villages
of Aubenas, Vallon Pont d'Arc (offers kayak trips), and Pont St-Esprit (for more on this
route, see here ) . En route to Burgundy, consider a Beaujolais detour (see the next page).
Near Lyon: The Rhône Valley
The Rhône Valley is the narrow part of the hourglass that links the areas of Provence and
Burgundy. The region is bordered to the west by the soft hills of the Massif Central, and
with the rolling foothills of the Alps just to the east, it's the gateway to the high Alps (the