BURGUNDY - France 2014 - page 1330

the story of Christ's body being prepared for burial. See how realistic the marble looks as
the mourners tug the ends of Christ's shroud—remarkably supple.
Nearby : The Archbishop's Garden (Jardin de l'Archevêché), just behind the cathed-
ral, has a fine classical design and point-blank views of the flying buttresses. On Sundays
when the weather agrees, old-school guinguette balls (picture a Renoir scene) are held
here. A stage and a bar are set up and locals drink and dance as if it were still the belle
époque.
▲ Medieval Quarter (Vieille Ville) Stroll
Bourges' old city is lassoed within Rues Bourbonnoux, Mirebeau, Coursarlon, Edouard
Branly, and des Arènes. Richly decorated Renaissance mansions, many of which house
small museums (worth entering), mix it up with France's greatest concentration of half-
timberedhomes(morethan500),mostofthemconnectedbelowstreetlevelbyalabyrinth
of underground passages. In this end of town, look for Hôtel Lallemant (home to the
Musée des Arts Décoratifs), Hôtel des Echevins (Musée Estève, with contemporary paint-
ings by Maurice Estève), and Hôtel Cujas (Musée du Berry, with Roman tombstones and
the famously expressive mourner statues from the Duke of Berry's elaborate tomb).
Start your tour at Place de la Barre, at the far end of Rue Mirebeau (a 15-minute
downhill walk from the cathedral toward the train station; en route, you may want to visit
Palais Jacques Cœur—described next). From Place de la Barre, stroll to Rue Mirebeau's
other end at Place Gordaine, then head back toward the cathedral up Rue Bourbonnoux
(veer right after Rue Mirebeau). As you come upon Rue Joyeuse (on your left), notice
the Maison des Trois Flutes (a crafts shop). The flutes create a column supporting the
building'ssecondfloorandmarktheentrancetoRueJoyeuse,the“JoyfulStreet”thatheld
Bourges' red light district during the Middle Ages.
Continue up Rue Bourbonnoux to Escalier George Sand (look for it on the right just
beforetherecommendedLed'AntanSancerroisrestaurant).Goabouthalfwayupthestairs
of the passage, turn left and walk past the ramparts, where you can spot vestiges of the
fourth-century Roman wall (look for the bits of red brick in the wall) before landing back
near the cathedral. From there, youcan walk back downRue Moyenne (modern shopping,
postoffice)toreachthePalaisJacquesCœur(whichislocatedonestreetwestofRueMoy-
enne—at the FNAC store, head to the left down Rue du Docteur Témoin, then take the
next right down a winding alley—Rue Alexandre Dumas—that lands you right in front of
the palace).
▲ Palais Jacques Cœur
Bourges matters to travelers today in large part because of Jacques Cœur (c. 1395-1456),
financier and minister to King Charles VII, who was born in Bourges. Monsieur Cœur